Romania, Constanta. 25th September

I didn’t get to Romania the first day. It appeared to be to far. When I was approaching Slovakian border I couldn’t control myself. I had to stop every 100 meters to take a photo . Tatra mountains are beautiful and weather was good. One could admire them in whole beauty. Considering the distance I had to ride, I decided not to stop again.
I don’t remember where, I got lost a bit. But this is not important, its were I dropped the bike for the first time! Silly thing, I sat on the bike, fold the stand, turned the key and started the engine. Bike was on first gear, you can imagine the rest, full embarrassment. Plenty of onlookers but nobody to help. F*** It took lots of sweat to put it back on wheels. Only then I felt how heavy the bike is. No damage, crash bars and panniers did their job. One more fuelling and I entered Hungary. After Miskolc I’ve put up my tent on some lake. I was exhausted and it was getting dark. I cooked some soup and tea. Sink into double sleeping bag and slept like a baby. I will have to get used to all strange sounds…..
Next day I got to Romania. And momentarily traffic changed . Everybody who doesn’t have a Dacia was speeding to break a neck. Overtaking as third is normal. 100km/hr through the city as well. Romanian villages shocked me. Life is focused along main road where one can sit and observe the traffic. Rest of the roads just ground and rocks, no tarmac. I felt bad even to stop and take photos. It looks that nobody has money. However all have the newest mobile phones. I attract attention wherever I go. Motorbike particularly. Just yesterday, some guy insisted to have a photo on my bike. Well….
It is not to bad so far, but not as I imagined. I wanted more camps in beautiful scenery. Unfortunately besides Carpathians, Romania is flat as table, crop fields everywhere and no trees. Only Carpathian mountains gave me some satisfaction. Beautiful bends, corners, and mountains.
I miss Zaba (Ewelina), it’s a pity we couldn’t do it together. Talking to myself suppose to be fun, but its not. And there is so long left. Will I manage? I don’t know. More east should be cheaper and more hospitable. We will see…
I can’t upload any photos here so will be without.
Keep your fingers crossed!!

Day 22 Rabka – direction Romania

Its 7.54 am, rabka. Weather looks promising, sunny. Morning dew is covering the grass. It is chilly. I’m writing these words sipping over sweetened coffee. I just have to eat some breakfast put my stuff together and load onto the bike. In few hours I will be leaving towards Romania. There will be no motorways so no high speeds. I will enter Slovakia from Lysa Polana, next to Miskolc and finally to Debrecyn, From there only few km to Oradea in Romania. Keep your fingers crossed. I don’t know when I will be able to write here again.

Days 18-21

All4 days I’ve spent travelling between Krakow and Rabka, where my mother lives. Couple of days here and couple there. I love Krakow, and I know that one day I will be back here. I can’t imagine better place to retire. Krakow is changing. You can see new investments, roads are getting better, bypasses are being built. The most jammed streets are now the least , and streets in the centre are getting jammed now. New buildings shoot up as mushrooms after rain.
Tenement houses of the market square and around are meticulously restored. It is beautiful.

I visited some of my friends, Maciek and Magda, Monika. Dorian called me today, TVP reporter I talked to when I was in Warszawa. Dorian is interested to do short documentary about me for local news – Kronika Krakowska. I didn’t say no. Television has power! We finished shooting on Wednesday 19^th around 1pm. It was aired the same day in the evening edition of Kronika Krakowska and in Teleexpress by night at 22.45. It is weird to see yourself in the telly, even worse to hear in stereo, I have thick highland accent!

Finally I’ve realised that very soon the real adventure would start. There will be no friends where I go. I would have to plan camping every day, cook for myself, plan every next day, and so on… I only have 5 weeks until my Iranian visa expires, I have to hurry..

Day 17 Warszawa –Krakow

That was Sunday. Formula 1 day on my favourite circuit, Spa-Francorchamps. That was a superb race for me. Kimi Raikkonen won it , fourth win this season, I was delighted. Additionally Robert Kubica had quite a good race. All the time he had to fight for positions, for 44 laps. He started 13 th so he had a lot to do, finally he finished 9 th, just after points. My train back to Krakow was at 5pm. I was waiting on the platform staring at the train, but didn’t get in. I wanted to go to Krakow not to Przemysl – where the train was heading. After 20 min of waiting, and the train was long gone , I realised that it was my train. I had buy new reserved-seat ticket. This time it was Warszawa-Krakow train, I got to Krakow one hour late but I got there!

Day 14-15 Warszawa

Brrr… That’s how I thought about our capitol city. I was there a couple of times but I always tried to come back to Krakow as soon as possible. Something here always repelled me. It is difficult to expect from a completely destroyed city to even the beauty of Krakow and its sights. There is an old part of Warszawa but it is not the same……

This time there were more people to visit, but lets start from the beginning.

Straight from the train I walked to Pakistani embassy. Just 3 km. Embassy.. empty.

Leaving the elevator you bump directly to white close doors with small window. Just like in old times in pharmacies and village shops. “what do you want?..visa?…300zl and a week Sir” Damn, I thought. One week! I didn’t want to wait so long, and for sure not in Warszawa.From embassy I got to “Rekwizytornia” company run by Magda. She rents movie props. Great stuff. In the storage you could find old cameras, chairs, police uniforms, old national costumes, all kinds of bottles, globes and so on…. I could continue for ever… Madga together with Michal, Monika and always smiling Maurycy, took me to the museum of Warsaw uprising. One of the most interesting museum I’ve ever been to.

I also met friends from Goettingen, no actually one old friend.

That was a great visit. I didn’t wait 7 days. I went back to Krakow on Sunday, and Michal picked up my passport and sent it to me by UPS, great…

Day 13 Wroclaw – Krakow

That was pure pleasure, riding to Krakow. I could hardly wait, therefore continuously was breaking the speed limits. I love Krakow, and I wanted to be there as soon as possible. Road was superb, From Wroclaw up to Krakow bypass was flat as a table, fast sometimes even 3 lanes. The whole journey took me less than 4 hrs. I came to Maciek, unloaded the bike and parked it in the storage. That was it, for riding during next few days.Trip to Warszawa by train and stress in Pakistani embassy is awaiting me tomorrow.

Day 12 Berlin – Wroclaw

I left Berlin about 11 am. At some point we were stuck in the traffic jam. I’m furious if I can’t squeeze between cars. Now I am as wide as “maluch” (polish 126 Fiat), unbelievable..

Maciek and Marta accompanied me to the motorway. I filled my tank on Aral station, or maybe Shell…. Few hugs, white tissue waving and I was off towards Dresden. After 4.5hrs I arrived in Wroclaw.

Day 10-11 Berlin

I drunk to much yesterday. “przepalanka” was exceptionally good. It reminded me my father and his ritual of preparing this home made vodka. Arek came, that cheered me up. I haven’t spoken to him for ages. And I haven’t seen my brother and his wife since March which was a tough month for our family. We have reminisced old times with help from vodka.

This time I wanted to see Berlin by night. Stroll on illuminated river promenade resulted in few good photos.

Arek showed me Berlin from completely different perspective. Specifically from the push bike seat. I with camera, he with tripod under his arm, rode along Berlin wall. When I looked at that wall I tried to imagine what a citizen of East Berlin felt waking up in the morning and seeing soldiers guarding western paradise. The wall is not that high, but without help not easy to conquer. Nowadays, it is decorated with thousands of graffiti, some are even decent.

Day 9 Goettingen Berlin

Of course, I didn’t leave as early as I wanted. I was tempted by side roads, particularly those through Harz national park. Beautiful hills and lakes. However, just few km from the town it started to rain. I didn’t want to stop to put the “condom” on. But once cold started to get into all parts of my body I gave in. Parking by LIDL was quite empty, so I stopped there. I dig out my rain suit and after 10 min I was in it. It’s a nightmare to put it on, and it rained all the time. Under, my suit was wet…

I entered Harz in rain and mist. I couldn’t see further than 20 meters. I had few minor slides on white paint. When I saw signs for motorway I thought I should take it, minute later, I should not.

I continued in snails pace. After 1 hr riding with mist on the visor I took exit to motorway. At 5pm I was in Berlin. I found my brothers house easily. Beer…..

Day 7-8 Goettingen

After 3.5 years living in Edinburgh I haven’t noticed any changes in Goettingen. Streets look the same, same shops in same places. One thing hit me though. It was emptier. There is definitely less people on the streets. It is pretty and colourful. However I am not sure I would like to come back here.

I didn’t go to mensa (German student canteen) because I still think that lunch at 12pm is a mistake. I left home at 3pm heading to the Institute. After coffee with Jezus I took Kazik to town centre. As my photography guru his job was to teach me few tricks. We were shooting for an hour or so. Than we went to Karstadt and Media Markt because I needed an external disc for my photos. I bought it next day.


My stay in Goettingen was great which I spent drinking and chatting to old friends. But, Berlin calls…..

Day6 Heidelberg to Goettingen

I decided not to use motorways anymore. German Autobahns are superb, fast and smooth as a table but…, yes, there is but…they are incredibly boring. Bends are profiled so they feel like straights. I’ve chosen longer route, time consuming but twisty. And that was first time so far I really enjoyed riding. Weather was good, few showers, winds, but it didn’t bother me. I had 250 miles to do, which makes 6-7 hrs on B roads. Route was great, twisty roads, uphill bends, tight corners and beautiful views. Once I scratched the road with my panniers, forgot I have them and that bike behaves different. Specially during breaking from high speeds. Rear was sliding like Yamaha under Rossi. I was so into the road that I stopped only to piss and drink some tea. I didn’t want to stop so no photos…

I won’t forget entering Goettingen. I arrived from the direction Baggersee. Here in this town, I’ve spent 3 years of my life. I felt strange. I new each junction, each shortcut, each passed building… I smiled. It was a good idea to come here. I arrived at Pawel and Renia’s exactly 6.5 hrs after I left Heidelberg. I unloaded the bike, panniers here, tyres there. Bike trousers “needed air”, I have few complaints about them, there should be more ventilation. I wonder whose fault is this, jacket is great, loads of ventilators on arms, back and front. Trousers have small vents at the thigh level and that’s it. After few hours my bum was surely red! Well they will have to do. I got my coffee and beer. Beer went quick with no question. 2 hours later I was sitting with Kazik and Pawel aka Jezus in Mercedes, speeding 170kmh to Hanover to pick up Misiek. He can not wait, we mustn’t be late! We cam back before 12am.

Day 4-5 Heidelberg

I liked Heidelberg at first. At second visit less so, third time I realised it is a bit to small. For me is to cramped. One has a feeling that there is one street only, parallel to the river and were city life is going on.

The beauty of Fachheauser destroyed by Rossman, New Yorker, LIDL and other shops. Everything can be admired from the castle terrace, ruins of the castle I should say, that absolutely captivates you already from the distance. Scaffolds of that castle I have climbed together with A at day 4.

I don’t know why, maybe we were bored or we wanted to get a glimpse of city view from different perspective. Less touristy, original. However, if not for the bottle of vodka+glasses+juice it would be ordinary scaffold climbing. We have spent few hours up there talking, discussing, comparing, philosophising…

“one could organise a concert here, violins and big contrabasses here… auience there…”

“…But, I would need a big balloon with hot air and women inside howling to the music…” I added “ and flying dragons…”

When ruins disappeared in the darkness and last lamps illuminating gothic and renaissance buildings were shut we have climbed down. Short walk home on the deserted streets , it was worth…

Fifth day was a pursuit of “the photo”… didn’t work out. I just found an excellent poster that fits to my dream, my trip. “Dein Traum wird wahr"- your dream will come true, just great!

I felt really good there. I recalled old memories talking to Dominika, Lukasz and Aska. Aga gave me cosy home for a few days and I appreciate that.

Stuck in Poland

dear friends!it has been a while since last post. I will update my blog very soon and will post a lot of nice pictures. I am still travelling but stuck for some time in Poland as there is a delay with pakistani visa. I am in Krakow now (home sweet home) waiting .....

Day 3. Oxford - Heidelberg 578 miles.

This was ment to be a motorway day. I got up at 4 am to be sure I get to Dover for 9 am. I left at 5. I made a wrong turn and ended up in oxford centre.Damn, i've lost maybe 20 min. Finally i did find M40 direction LOndon, then M25 and M20 to Dover. Got there with 1,5 hour to spare. I;ve met a very nice couple. He on a Varadero 1000, she on a F 650 Gs. They were on the way to Black Forrest. "where are you going, someplace cool?"-they asked. "Nepal"-I said like it was a short trip to Morrisons for a pizza. I will never forget they surpriced faces. Few days back they have read about me on UKGSER website. World is very small.


I wasn't crying watching GB dissapearing. I have left a very comfortable bed behind me. Dinners every night i everything else i got used to for last 3,5 years. And my wife of course who cries from time to time because she cares about me.This feeling scared me a little bit because i realised this is it. Now the Journey starts.

Ferry reached Calais at Noon. Now there will be just speeding on motorways all the way down to Heidelberg. I wanted to get there before dark, as everybody knows I hate riding at night. Distance was huge. Welcome in Belgium, welcome in netherlands, welcome in Bundesrepublic Deutschland. I did a mistake and took wrong turn. When i saw a Tram i brussel i knew i need to turn back. After this the road was long and booooring. From Brussels direction Leuven, then Aachen, Koln, Koblenz, very long queue, Ludwigshafen, Mannheim, Heidelberg. I did not have any problems finding Aga's address as I have been to heidelberg before. I did 578 miles from Oxford to HD in 15 hours (inc.Ferry).
Quick shower, casual clothing and a beer!I did deserve it, no doubt. We spent the evening sitting on the Castle, drinking wine in very big glasses.Very Posh!!

Day 2- Oxford

We woke up around 9 am. Are we getting up?- I asked. Whatever- replied Misiek. For next 20 min we discussed if it is even worth. I got up first, turned the computer on while Misiek started to prepare breakfast. I started my day checking emails, every now and then dipping my nose in a mug of instant coffee. Not my favourite but it didn’t matter. There were few posts on UKGSER, I was delighted! Its great to know that my trip has a few observers.

We left before 11am for sightseeing. Last time we had only one evening on the way to Monte Carlo and we haven’t seen much. We walked narrow and mysterious alleys and got to Museum of Natural History. I am not a big fan of museums but I agreed. We were welcomed by the skeleton of T-Rex. It must have been a beast but those tiny arms … not easy! There was a lot of exhibits, skeletons of giraffes, elephants, dinosaurs, primates and even extinct Dodo.

Misiek wanted to buy a T-Shirt. So we went to shopping centre, where thousands of people fought for 70% discounted goods. T-Shirt “feeling lucky” with skull wasn’t bad but Misiek didn’t buy it.

WE were just leaving when I heard “ wait I’m gonna buy it” I waited for him, maybe 5 min. Walking wide corridor we passed short blond guy. “Misiek is it OK to ask famous person for a photo?” I asked . “Sure” I heard. “ So come with me” I added. I catch up with the blond “ Mr. Kovalainen, would you mind a photograph with me?” “Not at all” answered Heikki with big smile. We shake hands Misiek shoots the photo. A bit blurred but still OK. The Fin impressed me, with positive energy and optimism. Formula 1 star, winner of the Race of Champions, the same one that thrashed Michael Schumacher. I just hope he will do better. Good luck Heikki!!!

I was ready to go back. He made my day. Just one more important photo in front of the pub where J.R.R Tolkien used to spend his time, beer in Misiek’s favourite pub and than home. For a few minutes we watched a video with Niki, Misiek’s daughter. His flatmate came just when we played Sade in background, seating on the sofa with wine glasses in our hands. I don’t want to know what thought crossed her mind;)

After dinner we just had time go for one beer on the river bank, where we laughed the memories of old commodore games and at the family that could start sailing their gondola. See you in Goettingen, Doctor!

Day one Edinburgh to Oxford

www.putfile.com/cyprys/

First day of the trip is behind me. Getting to Oxford took me 3 hrs more than before (7 all together). Now I will have beer with Misiek and than straight to bed. Tomorrow some sightseeing and super duper dinner.

So, everything started at 9 am when I shut the door of my home, which doorstep I won’t cross in the next 4 months. Konrad and Ania were there, Kenny, Steve, Wojtek and of course my beloved Ewelina. From home we rode to Dalkeith, where I used to work for last 1,5 years. There, I was supposed to meet few bikers. And they were there Voyager, Skynet, Stumpy, Blackal and Secret Agent Len.

After quick coffee I realised that I left my road map at home, damn it! Ken jumped on the V-Strom and went back to get it. First delay was caused by my bursting head preoccupied by travel. There was no real hurry, but I still had some 450 miles ahead of me. Shortly after 10 am eight motorcycles left MCE towards Glasgow. We spent there maybe 20 min and at last I met people I only knew by phone.
Ken R. thought that it would be great to go to Carlisle by scenic roads, which wasn’t a bad idea, views were awesome but it added to my delay. Few miles towards Edinburgh and than we took A73. Next A721 and finally A702. We stopped near the exit to M74. When I embraced Ewelina it hit me what I’m up to. Being alone for 4 maybe 4.5 months won’t be easy. When she started to cry I felt sad and realised how much it must cost her to let me do this trip. I love you Zaba.
I shook guys hands, last photos and I took off to Oxford listening to Tricky’s “ she makes me wanna die”

First traffic jam came near Preston, initially I waited 5 minutes. But seeing that I haven’t moved at all, I decided to take a hard shoulder. Congestion stretched for next 20 km!!! Next one came near Birmingham. Hard shoulder again…. And than I saw police lights…shite. “why I ride this way? How long I ride a bike? Where am I going? What driving license do I have and how do I like 4 points of my license? “ Finally after small debate and me saying mostly “I’m Sorry, I won’t do it again” they let me go without penalty. My spirit was broken and I was stuck like an arse in that traffic. 10 km took me 1hr. I got to Oxford around 9pm.
Misiek waited at the doorstep and beer in the fridge!!!

Motorbike was perfect, the only problem were panniers, like sails they caught every blow of the wind throwing me from one side of the road to the other…
After 297 miles I fuelled the bike knowing that last time engine stopped at 305.

I HAVE DONE 472 MILES.