so far so nepal

2010-02-23T15:32:00.000-08:00

my bike was standing out of the box in which it flown from Kathmandu, just outside Richard's house. He put it together for me the same they he picked it.
We spent the day together with his parents. It was a nice evening. Next day very eearly in the morning I set of for a last leg of my trip. 400 miles up north to Edinburgh where I hope to meet my wife who is coming back from the US same day and she should be home before I get there.
The road was long and exhausting. I got rid off broken screen in Pakistan and broken fender in Kathmandu so I had no wind protection whatsoever. And it was raining like hell. I did managed to get to edinburgh late afternoon. My friends who were suppose to pick up my wife from the airport told me that her flight was delayed. She eventually made it and we finally met back inside the house. It was great to see her after all those months.

2010-02-18T20:53:00.000-08:00

The world is very small. Not long time ago, in +40 Celsius, I was speeding through Iranian and Pakistani deserts and here he is. He phoned me from the Czech Republic and came next day. We celebrated this meeting with beers in many of the finest krakow's underground pubs. I did phoned many of my friends and we celebrated till 5 am! it was nice to talk about our adventures in wider public.

He couldn't stay longer than one day so we said bye bye and see you in London, in Richards house, when my bike was waiting for his owner.
It's New Years Eve tomorrow. Have a nice party everybody. I am so skinny that I'll most definatelly stay at home with family.

3rd of January I'll go with my my brother to Berlin, Germany where he has been leaving for 8 years. Then on the 8th I'll fly to London, UK to meet Richard again and pick up my bike. Next day I will set off for a 400 miles trip up North to Edinburgh. My wife comes back fromthe US on the 9th. Super planning.

12/27

2010-02-18T16:35:00.000-08:00

Christmas, Christmas and it's all over again. It's cold here. Not as cold as it it usually in high mountains in poland but still. I'm super unprepared for this. I steal jumpers and jackets from my youngest brother. Thanks heaven he's got similar body.
it's been 8 days already in Poland. Flight from Dehli was a murder. It took 10 hours to get to Milan in Italy. Then I waited 2 hours for a plane to Krakow, Poland which took another 2hours. I didn't even feel like looking outside the window. When I got to Krakow my friend was waiting for me with my favorite beer in his hand. God It felt good.
I spent christmas with my Family anf friends. My mother was overjoyed by my safe return. There were presents and more presents. Every now and then everybody was asking me -"how do you look,man? you look like death. Eat something." I have lost 30 pounds in those months on the road but my stomach got so used to $2 a day budget that I really couldn't eat much. I finally got some weight back but it took few days.
this guy on my left is one of my best friends and I haven't seen him for almost 10 years. we used to move mountains together when we were younger. With the one in the middle I haven't spoken for 9 months. It was very nice to see them again. We drunk an "ocean of alcohol". We also did "bobsleigh" but this is a story for another time.

there have been walks with my brother's dog, Boris, a huge Rottweiler which I absolutely love. There was a lot of food as well which was good because I started to gain some weight. It was different though from everything I have experienced in last months. Hot water whenever I want, food served to the table, not cooked outside my tent, heating, etc.

3rd of January i'll be going with my other brother to Berlin, Germany where he's been leaving for last 8 years. From there I'll fly to London, UK on the 8th. I will pick up my beloved commrade 1150 GS and by land I get to Edinburgh, where I finally hug my wife who comes back from the US on the 9th. Perfect planning.

Hello and good happy New Year from freezing Rabka.

17,12 Dehli. India

2007-12-27T05:39:00.000-08:00

This must be the end. Today i left Kathmandu and got after 1.5 hours to Dehli. Himalaya from the sky look beautiful, magnificent!! dehli much less. I reached my hotel after 1h of mad driving. It was dark. Traffic was terrible, taxi driver stopped and asked me to walk!After quick shower i went to eat something. I was attacked almost immediately.This is my shop...buy this...buy that...flute?Tomorrow i have to get to the airport again. at 2:50 am i am flying to Krakow. I cannot wait.

14.12. Kathmandu. Pashpatinath and Great Boudda.

2007-12-27T05:37:00.001-08:00

11.12 KTM

2007-12-27T05:10:00.000-08:00

i have running nose and i have just sneezed 5 times in a row.This is my absolute personal recors! i have never managed more then 2 times. I am ill since two days. This is of course my fault. I am spending whole days sitting on the roof with no t-shirt on, reading Clive Cussler, evenings the temeratue drops significantly and i cannot put something warmer on. When thinking of it, whole trip i have been wearing nothing but motorcycle gear which was very warm. Since my bike is away i am left with few t-shirts and a sweat shirt. that's it. Though,Aspirin, polopiryn and few other 40 % medicins should help.
Last few days after shipping my GS were slow. Kathmandu isn't a special place. More like a stop before climing mountains or shipping bike further east. I have visited few places, quite interessting. But after 10 days i have nothing left to do. Tomorrow I will go to Pashupatinath where you can experience a dead body burning ceremony. It should be quite an experience.
everyday, hundreds of people want to sell me something. Bracelet, fruit, flutes, tiger oil,cannopy etc. Cannopy is everywhere and you can smell it everywhere.
I said bye to my french friends whom i met in POkhara. They flew to Goa to have some fun on the beach.

It is a very dirty place. tons of rubbish lying on the streets. It doesn't seem to bother anyone but tourist.
I have visited "my kids" again. It was my last visit. They were very happy to see me. Unfortunately i did not have much time this time. VSN have located 2 new volunteers in Shining Stars, so this was an oportunity to go and see them. I have managed to take some photos. They just loved it. Kids wrote few letters to Tasha and Buzz.

I am learning how to cook simple nepali food. Gamju work in my hotel as a do-everything-what-is-requested-from-you-boy. I have learned to cook Dalbat and milk tea (seriously simple;)

Still 6 days to kill. On MOnday i fly to Dehli, one day later to krakow. It will take only 13 hours!!it is hard to believe somehow that from the day the Idea was born till now it's been almost a year. Time flies, especialy when you having fun.

5.12 Nagarkot. 6:30 am

2007-12-06T15:55:00.000-08:00

Nagarkot is close to KTM. With public transport it takes however 2hrs. Wrecked bus climbed all the way from Bhaktapur to Nagarkot. But it was absolutely worth. We left hotel at 5 am and marched 5km to the view tower on the top of mountain. It was freezing cold. Mountain range from Everest to Langtang in sight.

6.12 Kathmandu

2007-12-06T15:53:00.000-08:00

That was one stressful day!!! From early morning until 3pm I was stuck at the airport preparing the bike for shipment. It wasn’t easy and there was no end to curses and swears. I told those clowns not to start preparing cargo pallet until I dismantle the bike. As it appeared the pallet was just big enough. I could fit panniers and helmet into it. I wasn’t satisfied for very long time and they could sense it. Anyway, I worked my butt off. Didn’t fit here didn’t fit there, not enough here, to heavy….! I cursed in Polish, German, English and even in French…(influence of French guys I met in Pokhara). But at last we have packed everything, motorbike was inspected and carnet stamped. Now into the office to discuss costs. All together it weighed 326kg. I am not going to mention now how much I paid, who cares about that. However after a while I decided it is not to bad as the bike is being transported from one end of the world to the other. Now maybe I can start sightseeing and have a rest!

6.12 Kathmandu

2007-12-06T15:50:00.000-08:00

Yesterday, was one of the best days of my travel. At last I met all the kids, I did my journey for them. It was an amazing experience for me. 28 kids from Shining Stars orphanage are real darlings. I have never seen more smiley and jolly bunch! The moment they saw me I heard loud Namaste! We sat in the circle first and everybody introduced themselves. Later I told them about myself and my trip. We’ve put laptop on the chair and kids sat in front of it. I started to tell them my story, showed pictures of motorbike and myself from different corners of Europe and Asia. There was no end to questions , and we were running out of time.

Stars love photos, as you can probably see. They have a new house now, it is rented. VSN is now collecting funds for a new building. The ground is already purchased. The money we have collected are for that. Thanks! Best regards for Tasha and Buzz from kids, they miss you…:(

3.12.Kathmandu.

2007-12-03T14:49:00.000-08:00

91 days, 11 050 miles, 15 countries, 15 lost kilograms. That’s the balance of my journey. I entered Kathmandu 1^st of December, exactly! It’s a pity there was no road sign to document my achievement. For now I’ve attached just a few photos. I decided to fly back so have to organised cargo for my bike. It is almost all set, but I still don’t know how much it is going to cost me. I also met my charity organisation and had a chance to visit one orphanage. It was a completely new experience for me. On Wednesday I will go to Shining Star, the orphanage YOUR money are going to. I will also met the kids and tell them about my travel.

KTM it’s a city with dreadful traffic jams, stench and millions of tourists and shops with fake North Face gear. Riding a bike seems to be less dangerous for your life than walking. I promise to write more soon.

I have to confess it was an exhausting journey.

And now something for Buzz…

30.11. Back to Pokhara

2007-12-01T08:46:00.000-08:00

I woke up at decent hour, I mean when the sun didn’t let you sleep anymore. My tent on the roof was getting hot very quickly. From 8 am packing, for last few days everything in my panniers was upside down. It took me 2 hrs. As always obligatory photos with owners, staff and whoever was there. From there to Raju for a cup of tea and bear hug. Next to Rick in motorcycle club, photo, and then to filling station as my tank was dry.

It took me until noon. Chitwal National park is not far, 140 km I could do in 3 hrs if I hurry. Well, maybe 4 if I stop for photos. I had time. I left from Raju exactly at 12.20.

I passed by familiar stands with fruit, lovely woman who was selling me water, bazaar. Next over the bridge, passing busses parked across the street. Something was wrong with my front suspension, and a noticed that a while ago. I even told Raju, we checked and everything seemed to be OK. 15km outside the city, something started to bang loudly, and I started to panic. Handlebar was shaking, I used front break… , noise became louder. F*** I thought…dancing on the road….I’m going to kill myself. I braked with the rear…I was slowing down not being sure if I land in the ditch or not. After all I have newly painted shiny tank! What an irony would it be?! Obviously you don’t think much about your own life in moments like these.

I stopped, my heart was pounding like crazy, when I was getting off the bike I stumbled on the bag fixed to my back seat. I fell on my face, couldn’t stay on my feet…

I looked at the wheel..OK….tyre..OK…air…OK….I checked clamp… missing screw!!! F***, just recently I’ve changed front tyre, I didn’t tighten the screw! It fell off causing vibration and fright. I followed my tracks back in hope I could find it, no success. Luckily it was Nepal, workshop after workshop. One guy turned upside down 3 buckets of screws looking for a similar one. Fruitless. I decided to go back to Raju. 10km took me almost 50 min.

….“Raju…do you remember when I said something was wrong?” “I do”…

He didn’t have appropriate screw, but he jumped on his Enfield and came back after one hr, with screw in his pocket. A bit longer than the original one but fit perfectly.

It was after 2pm. I am not going to hurry, it was a sign. And during my trip I’ve learned to read them. In Turkey I wanted to avoid Erzorum and what happened? I crushed into rear of the Tofas…I had to stop in Erzorum. So I decided to stay. Tony, a nice English man who spends half year in London half year here, lend me his Enfield. F***, what a bike.. hard work! Gears don’t work well, kick start after previous decompression… no brakes… top speed? Forget! HOW TO RECOGNISE ENFIELD RIDER? BY SMASHED MOSQUITOES ON THE BACK OF HIS HEAD!!!

Anyway I made a 100km trip to mountains. It was amazing if I don’t mention engine stalls, unsuccessful tries to start it and frustration…

100km cost me 5 lit of fuel same as my GS! But Royal Enfield is 350cc whereas my bike is 1150! And it has brakes and speed. But there is something about them (RE), the sound they make is so sweet! I’ve just finished rum with Raju. Hotel is not the best but hey it is close to the workshop. Tomorrow after omelette (I didn’t like before, now I do) and tea I head to KTM.

29.11.2064 Still in Pokhara

2007-12-01T08:43:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I was on pins and needles for few long hours. Raju just finished pouring rest of the whisky, and next bottle was ready to go. The guy who was supposed to bring my fixed tank, that “suffered” during crash with Tofas in Turkey, was already 2 hrs late. I was like a ticking bomb. He didn’t come at all. But OK, weather wasn’t appropriate for drying of freshly painted tank, but he could have shown up said sth. It was 9 pm when we parked the last Enfield inside. I was buzzed coming back to hotel. I had a dream that my tank was poorly done, but lets start from he beginning…

I came to Pokhara 24.11. It took me whole day to get from Butwal in the south to the city centre. Only 150 km in 10 hrs. Roads were fantastic. I had to stop almost every other km, because I thought that “this is the best view I have ever seen in my life” and so on. I was filling memory cards one after one. The closer I was getting to the city the more beautiful mountains seemed to be. I stopped on the bend, city underneath and in front of me Annapurna range with the magnificent Mahchapuchare (Fish Tail) in the sunset light. The red of mountains and white of rising full moon made a mark in my memory forever. I quickly reached for tele lens. I took maybe 20 shots, Unfortunately now I have only the one here in the blog, By mistake I’ve formatted that memory card. I have no original pics, I came back to that place twice trying to catch the moon again. And I did, but the moon moved somewhere else.

I was shooting photos when I heard Pajaj 100cc behind, and loud “ O Puton!!!” A French guy noticed what I was photographing, and immediately reached for his Panasonic, then with maniacal zeal was running around shooting pics. I don’t know how it happened, but I’ve spent 3 days with them, in the same room in Green Park Hotel, cool guys.

Travelling one day to Saranghot (mountain with great view to Annapurna) somebody waved to me. I turned I waved back. An old guy sat there with maybe 8 Royal Enfields around. I haven’t stopped, though.

On my way back I stopped in front of the workshop. I met him, young Nepalese Raju, and few Brits. One of them funded motorcycle club “Hearts & Tears”. They looked at my GS and shook heads. Rick told me there is a tinsmith guy here that works for him sometimes. We jumped on the bikes, he had a beautiful enfield. The guy said it would be a job for 3 days and it would cost me 3000 Rupees, which makes 23 £!

Later when I came with my tank I found out it would be ready on Thursday not Wednesday. Promised 500 rupees extra for the young Nepalese worked. He said OK. Yesterday however, the weather was dreadful and it was not possible to deliver my tank. I got it today and I have to admit I am satisfied. 500 rupees went to the youngster and 3000 to the master. In Scotland I would probably request to paint it again. Small imperfection here, smudge there… but have to admit it looks better than when I got it from Buzz ;)

I fit it back and was shocked how shiny it was. You could see your reflection, superb job for 23£. Few people in turkey told me it was not repairable. I’ve learnt in Nepal that everything can be fixed. People here have no money to buy new things so they have learnt to repair old and theoretically unrepairable parts.

Pokhara is a beautiful place. So beautiful it attracts thousands of tourists. Touristy tourists and crazy tourists- walking bare feet, half naked singing songs and shouting “shanti shanti”. One day we woke up 5 am and rode towards Saranghot. I wanted to ride further. After 15 km we turned right and rode to the top of the hill. In front of us we had whole mountain range. Sunrise, 8000 m peaks. Unforgettable experience. The other day I went for a light trekking. I wandered few hrs in the jungle looking for nice spots to rest, phtograph etc… World Peace Pagoda, it’s a temple on the big square on top of the hill, with flood of flowers. From there view must be excellent. The only thing I could see were clouds. So thick and high they cloaked the highest mountains on earth. The view became so ….. normal, uninspiring. After 2hrs waiting for weather change I gave up and went back. Somewhere in the middle I witnessed a fight. Over a dozen of monkeys chased and battered one poor monkey that cried loud and run as fast as she could. I was able to record some of this but then the camera battery decided it was enough..

Most of the days I’ve spent walking around and resting from riding. After 3 days spent together French guys left and I moved on the roof with my tent. Every morning I woke up greeted by mountains. Evenings I’ve spent in Raju Bullet Surgery with a glass or two of whisky ;) plus traditional food. Tomorrow I set off for KTM. VSN contacted me and wait for me. We are going to meet on Saturday. I just want to go to Chitwal National Park before, and on the way to KTM stop in Daman from where I could observe sunrise over the highest peak on Earth!

27.11 Pokhara

2007-11-27T15:20:00.000-08:00

25.11 Pokhara. U stop Fish Tail and Annapurna Range

2007-11-25T07:57:00.000-08:00

24.11. Pokhara.

2007-11-25T04:58:00.000-08:00

I thought I won't write much today. Let the photos tell you about my day....

23.11 Butwal

2007-11-25T04:15:00.000-08:00

22.11 at 2.20pm local time I entered Nepal. I felt tears in my eyes, after so many months of planning, after 82 days of travel I finally reached the last country on my map. There will be no more stickers on panniers, no exchanges of one country’s currency to the next one, no need to adapt to new local habits, no more tasting of local food from the street…..

On one hand I am happy on the other little bit sad. Only 3 months ago I had mixed feelings. I thought I won’t manage, bike would give up, it already had high mileage. It appeared that it was I who suffered more, I’m not talking about accident in Turkey (even there my pride was hurt more). For many days my head aches and I feel exhausted. I’ve shed many kgs and really need longer rest.

Here is the plan, Now I have about 300km to my goal – Kathandu. But I don’t want to get there tomorrow. Tomorrow I will go to Pokhara and stay there for a couple of days. Maybe I could get closer to Annapurna. On Monday, accompanied by Kazik’s music I will reach Kathmandu and finish my voyages. But it won’t be the end of my trip. People from VSN await me, money you have donated it is for them.

Greetings from hot Nepal, from the border between jungle and high mountains!

21.11 Nainital

2007-11-25T03:26:00.000-08:00

My body starts to fail me. I feel cold, last three days I had fever, 39C. I have constant headache. Surely my body needs, longer than one day, rest here in mountains. I stuff myself with drugs and dress worm, etc. But riding these roads is very hard and needs good physical fitness. Now, I am medium fit. Additionally all that noise for the last month or so, plus weight loss. I lost about 10kg since I started. The closer I am the more I’d like to be there already.

The good news is that I have a good amount of money for the kids . We have collected over 1000GBP and that is awesome, thank you all!

Since I left Shimla I had no chance to go faster than 60kmh. Roads were super twisty and super holey. Only breathtaking views compensated for lost time. I wanted to ride those roads, roads that so many spoke of.

After seeing Karakorum Highway with my own eyes, I can frankly say that it is a piece of cake. These roads here in Himalayas are the real challenge. Between Shimla and Dehradun (I didn’t get to) I came across 50km of offroad. Suddenly, smooth as silk tarmac gave in to rocks and holes. Motorcycle was heavily mistreated. As I’ve found out later all roads would be like this. It didn’t matter what time I woke up and left I wasn’t able to do more than 160miles. I could have possibly done more but all the stops for coffee and photo in those amazing places, slowed me down. Distances of 20km in straight line became 90km of twisty roads. Climbing to 3200m and down again to 850m.

Oil leaks from the gasket between crankshaft and Axle. Possibly from riding hard on those off roads. However there is no leak when bike is idle. It only happens when oil is circulating. I am optimistic though, I am so close now. Only 160km to the Nepalese border, then Pokhara and Kathmandu. Keep your fingers crossed!

20.11.Nainital

2007-11-20T13:38:00.000-08:00

Today only few pics, and not the best ones as I have forgoten the right CF card. I am knackerd . I will stay here tomorrow and write few words.

17.11 Shimla

2007-11-17T08:35:00.000-08:00

I feel really bad today. I have a headache and nausea. I don’t feel like eating, only sleeping all the time?! I woke up today after 12h of sleep. Hardly, contemplating if its even worth. Through the window I could see monkeys jumping from roof to roof looking for some food.

I don’t understand why I feel so miserable. I am on 2200m above sea level, so it is not that high. It was much higher in Gilgit. Maybe its a sun stroke and I should avoid direct sun? I don’t feel like doing anything today. It is first time during my journey I wish it was over. In straight line it is only 900km to Kathmandu but in reality it will be something like 8 to 10 day

I left Amritsar yesterday by N1 to Delhi. First stage was dreadful. Pakistan was a kindergarten, India is terror on the streets. Absolutely no rules and f*** klaxons. Honking, never ending, loud and with bizarre melodies. I turned towards Jalandhar. Small villages started to appear. I lost my way few times which became everyday habit during my trip. When I reached Una I got really cold. I was entering high mountains, beautiful mountains. It was Himachal Pradesh upland. Views were breathtaking but I decided not to stop every time I see something interesting. It was so long ago that I could lean on my bike like that. Riding through these beautiful passes between mountains and amazing nature around made me smile to myself. First time I have encountered a horde of monkeys occupying all the trees and roads. It was definitely a good choice. Traffic eased but still you could bump into a truck parked across the road and half on your side, dough! There was one problem though, average speed was about 40 kmh and it was still far to Shimla.

At 5 pm I realised that either I will have to stop and camp wild or ride in the dark to reach Shimla. I chose the second option when in one of the hotels on the way I was asked 600 rupees for a room. I was tired and dirty, and on top of that it was really cold. I didn’t stop however to put something on, I was freezing. I noticed lights on the horizon, it was Shimla, proudly covering the hill. Hotel I found was awful but it was enough for me. It is cold inside I had to use both sleeping bags. There is no heating no TV nor bathroom or any other luxuries. In the bathroom nearby I could wash myself pouring water from the bucket while standing on the cold floor. ... but what can you expect for 3 £.

As I’ve already mentioned I woke up late today. A walk around Shimla isn’t easy, every street climbs uphill. And I fell really bad. Tomorrow morning I will decide whether to stay one more day or ride to higher mountains. If my state is related to the heights I have to reconsider that.

15.11.Amritsar.India

2007-11-17T06:58:00.000-08:00

I apologise but I won’t catch up on the Pakistani story. I’ll try to do it once I am back, however believe me there is not much to write about. The only place worth mentioning was Gilgit and Karakorum.

While staying in Lahore we decided with Richard to fly to Gilgit. To try something new and have a rest from biking. In the morning we set off for Islamabad. Only from there we could fly to Gilgit. After few hours of horrific riding we got to the airport. We were refused to enter
motorway so we had to take N5, really bad road and very dangerous.

We bought our tickets. Flight however was not certain, flights to mountains depend on the weather. For last few days planes were flying on schedule and there was no problems. So we were calmed.

At 7.15 we took off. After 10 min views became spectacular. Flat dirty ground changed into beautiful mountains. Pilot shouted that on the right we could see Nanga Parbat. My first 8000m peak.

The flight itself was amazing. We were flying at 5500m almost between peaks, but Nanga ruled the sky. Hotel was OK, only 290 rupees for a room. It was really cold there so we got some extra blankets.

Tourist office was next to the hotel. We agreed for price of safari with the owner. And because it was 9 am and we only had one day we had to hurry.

Old Toyota Land Cruiser picked us up from the hotel shortly before 10am. We had Passu and glacier nearby planned as well as Rakaposhi peak of 7000m. I felt really good when we were climbing Karakorum Highway higher and higher. At some point

Close to Passu we were at 3000m. All that gave me a foretaste of what is ahead of me, Annapurna trekking!

We’ve paid for hotel in Rawalpindi for 3 days, we wanted to leave our luggage there and take just necessary things to Gilgit.

After we came back we had one more night. In the morning I rode away to India and Richard to the airport to catch a flight to London. The story of sending his bike to London requires one whole post .

Since 2 days I am in India in Amritsar. Border crossing was fast and without problems. Maybe because I came just before closing and guys just wanted to go home.

I have checked in to a gratuitous hotel facing Golden Temple.

India fascinates and shocks at the same time. I have to admit that poverty can be seen all around, and a lot of disabled or challenged people. Lots of homeless sleeping on the streets. Traffic is even worse than in Pakistan and Iran together.

14 Nov, Amristar, India

2007-11-14T13:32:00.000-08:00

This photo I took close to Gilgit in Karakorum, Pakistan. More tomorrow. I am now in India in Amristar.

Golden Temple in Amristar.

5 Nov. Quetta. Pakistan

2007-11-07T13:37:00.000-08:00

From Shiraz we took route to Bam which wasn’t really recommended, for safety reasons. Views were breathtaking and I don’t understand why they consider this region as DANGER! Nothing distressing happened to us, it was rather opposite. Everybody welcomed us and we never felt endangered. We got to Sirjan. Small town. We decided to stay there despite how it looked, and in the morning set off to Bam. There we wanted to spend 2 days and rest. Sirjan was a total shithole. And people were the most annoying we met so far. One of the locals however, teacher of sth, spoke some English and helped us buying fuel on the black market. It took maybe 5 min, both of us tanked 20 litres. Hotel wasn’t far. We bargained room plus breakfast for 250 000, in the morning they asked for 340 000. We were pissed off! The guy warned us that they would try to do that, add extra for breakfast or parking…I have to run now. Will finish some other time

1 Nov, Shiraz.

2007-11-03T14:14:00.001-07:00

After almost 500 km of boring road we got to Shiraz. Just after hour ago we checked in the hotel. On the way we saw Tombs of Persian kings and ruins of Persepolis. Once Persepolis was taken by Alexander the Great and as gossip says he sat it on fire by mistake. I have to admit, the vast area of ruins has raised my respect. And when I heard all that 200m x 300m was under wooden roof my imagination started to work. Because I was behind my schedule I decided to continue tomorrow. Journey to Kerman, its over 500km. We have to leave early morning. From Kerman we will go to Bam, where we stay two days and have a rest before we head to Pakistan.

31 Oct, Yazd

2007-11-03T13:52:00.000-07:00

I can’t believe, today I’m 2 months en route. Time passes incredibly quickly. And it is also strange to be one leg already in November and to have 30C in the sun. Nights on the other hand are cold and the more east I go more cold they would be.

I got to Yazd yesterday early afternoon. It is a picturesque but not such a small place, around 350 km from Esfahan. Road was absolutely boring, no views, straight, full of trucks.

It wasn’t difficult to find a hotel. I stopped by a motorcycle spares shop. I took out my notebook with hotels, presented it to a guy, that appeared next to me and I asked in Farsi for a hotel. He took a pen and draw with a red line map how to get there. I have also purchased very loud horn for 25 000 rials – 3 dollars!

I found the hotel. In front of it, a brand new KTM990 was chained to the lamppost. Greg came here from Dubai. He was leaving early in the morning. He also gave me some of his oil. I climbed steep stairs inside. Outside the hotel looked like mud house, well it was a mud house. Inside though, had a spacey yard covered by textile roof. Sofas, fountain and dining area, really charming. I’ve set my tent up on the roof. Few Japanese and a French couple slept already there. Nights are chilly so I was glad I had my tent, unlike others sleeping under the sky. In the night I could hear clanking teeth. For this luxury I paid 2 bucks a night, not to bad.

I met there, Mike and Lotta, he is English she Finnish. They ride from Vietnam where they used to live for 5 years. They bought two Suzukis dr 650 and travel to Helsinki. They want to get to Tehran fast and from there take a train to Istanbul. Few hours after me another biker has arrived. Richard from London, on Honda 600XR. He just finished travelling around ex Russian republics and rides to Pakistan. He is joining me and we continue together tomorrow morning. From one story to other, when Rich heard I’m polish immediately mentioned a guy he met few days ago in Russia! It was Maciek (Lordmaciek) from Gdansk, who was coming back from Magadan after successful Motosyberia (www.motosyberia.com). The world is small. I was in touch with Maciek when organising my trip.

Yazd is beautiful. Hotel (Silk Road Hotel) stands in the old part of the city. Houses from mud or clay, narrow streets, small premises loaded with goods. Awesome aromas of fresh Nan bread escaping from bakeries. Old part of the city forms a big labyrinth. Every minute you can see a local racer on cg125 speeding by. Occasionally, farmers pick-up or a taxi, and at that moment you better stick to the wall and pray not to be touched by a mirror or bumper. It was first place in Iran where kids were coming to me asking for photos.

It is one of the oldest cities in the world. And minarets of the Jameh mosque are among the highest in the country (48m)

You could wander around Yazd for hours every moment discovering new and interesting nooks. I’ve done my favourite night photography as well as had tea in cosy tearoom in there.

29 Oct, Esfahan

2007-11-03T11:42:00.000-07:00

Afternoon, before 5pm I was already in Esfahan. Despite having a map, copied from LP, I got lost. Some guy on CG125 showed me all the way to hotel doors. This hotel can be found in world wide read guide. Every tourist has it (except me). Unfortunately, this hotel turned out to be much much worse then expected. I got a double room, inside 3 beds, on one bed a pile of blankets and bed linen. On second one – table?! For a moment I thought that by mistake I entered storage room. I checked room number on the doors, No. 2, thats right. Well, what more do I need than a bed and fresh water? TV on the fridge, broken aerial though, that I could miraculously fix. Receiving was awful, it was black and white, and anyway I couldn’t understand a word. I checked almost all bed sheets before I found a “quite clean” one. I haven’t risked with blankets. I prefered familiar smell of my sleeping bag. On hotel doors sticker informs about new album of KAZIK (polish singer).

I wasn’t wandering a lot in the evening, I didn’t have a map nor I knew where I was. I only walked along main street. I found nice bakery, bought 2 breads straight from the oven. Inside oven was coated with small pebbles, bread had to be cleaned from them before giving it to the customer. In the shop next door I purchased cheese, in the next one tomatoes and onion, in third one coca-cola (ashi-mashi). I haven’t seen any shop with all those things. Supper before 10pm.

I tried to wake up at 6am today, to see as much as possible before I meeting Hojjat, Mehdi’s friend I met on Monday in Karaj. But I woke up at 8.30.

Yesterday I found a Foreign Nations Police booth . There, I got a map of Esfahan in German. “where do you work? What do you do? Do you study? You are so smart! I heard when I said I can also speak german.

Even with a map I was able to get lost or just go in opposite direction – as I prefer to call it. I got to Imam Square, at last, before it was called Kings Square. It was the size of market square in Krakow. Around beautiful and massive mosques. I could enter 3 of them paying 5000 rials for each. Unfortunately without any guide or tourist leaflet I can not say to much. It wasn’t even possible to join any tourist group that time. There are many more tourists here than anywhere before. Even in my hotel there was three other Poles recently. I think there used to be a lot of us, every storekeeper knows “dzien dobry, jak się masz, do widzenia, czesc”

I came back to hotel for 12. I took Hojjat on my bike and we drove to gas station. I filled my tank using his fuel card. 30 litres, I was supposed to pay 90 000 rials, and this is nothing compared to black market prices. And the second advantage was that I didn’t have to use my own so I still have 120 l on it. Hojjat however didn’t want to accept any money (I tried 3 times – Ta’arof) saying it was his gift to me. So many people gave me something or helped, and I don’t have anything for them, no gift no nothing. I will do it when I’m back home.

Now, I’m sitting in front of computer at chemistry department university of Esfahan. Before, I talked to some professor and he agreed to let Hojjat go early to show me the city. It is a beautiful place and I wanted to make some night photos. It is easier, as well, when you are with an Iranian, otherwise you are nagged every 100 meters by “welcoming you in Iran” people.

Ewelina asked me to take some more photos of normal life. Believe me, it is not easy to point your camera at people. Displeased women were hiding behind their scarfs, men were waving hands. I can maybe try with teleobjective.

27 Oct Tehran

2007-11-03T10:09:00.000-07:00

Teheran, 45x47 km of complete madness. 12 000 000 people drowning in stink and smog. Never ending traffic noise. After 2 hrs I’ve developed a headache. Mehdi knew the place where I was collecting my money. I filled a form in 2 copies, counted money, correct. Now, I am relaxed.

BMW booklet says that the branch in Tehran also has motorcycle department. It looked like one but there was no spares, no oil. We were recommended some other place where they have never heard of Castrol GT or Putoline Formula-V either. Here is the tip – if your oil change is due in Iran, find a space to take it with you. I haven’t and now I started to worry if I will get to Nepal or not?!

Getting here from Karaj was easy. You can take a taxi or metro. Taxi is more expensive, however after calculating into western world currencies it is still cheap. Metro return ticket 5000 rials = 26p, taxi 10 000 rials. Taxi is faster and comfier, (trains are crotch-to-butt crammed), and additionally you can observe the road through front window. Here, nobody knows how to drive. Crashes are everyday thing. According to statistics, 20 000 people die here per year, which gives 55 per day, I can see how!

I do not recommend Tehran to anybody. I haven’t even really seen it. We’ve taken a city bus to the northern part of the city, to the bottom of surrounding hills. It took us 70 mins! I’ve fallen asleep at some point. And I have to add that giving up your seat to the elderly is not known in here. “Grandpa” can sit only if the younger leaves. And it was me who was urged by older guy to sit! Rear of the bus was reserved for woman. You pay when you leave not when you enter, which wouldn’t probably work in my country. When somebody gets off, runs quickly to the driver to pay him. Other countries other customs. North part is for reach people. Beautiful villas, BMWs, Mercedes S-Klasse in front. You can tell some have it better here. There are hundreds of shops and restaurants. Small cafés where you could hide with your girlfriend. Here I have seen the most of couples holding hands. Additionally small river and mountains make this place charming. Unfortunately charm was gone where we were charged 15 000 rials for tea!

Back home by taxi with 2 other strangers. I fall asleep, and woke up in Karaj. In the evening last dinner and loads of tea. I’ll be sad leaving Mehdi and Hassan. Its a pity, I don’t have more time.

In the morning I’ve noticed somebody stole my horn, the one that I’ve bought specially for Iran, Pakistan and India. I hope it won’t work for him!!!

2007-10-28T16:00:00.000-07:00

24 Oct Karaj

I left Hossain’s with the smile. I stayed there to long and got lazy. The time has come to continue. 10 days have past since I came to Iran and I haven’t seen much more than rainy Astara. Well, and Tabriz, but it wasn’t anything special. I left very early. It wasn’t far to recommended by Hossain place. I had to ride towards Rasht, than to Fuman and from there only 30 km. Because it was raining all the time in Astara, I didn’t have a chance to see the Caspian Sea. 180 km to Rasht was on narrow road along seaside, going through many villages with car repair workshops. Sometimes I have a feeling that beside garages and shops with coca-cola, there is nothing else here. Considering Iranian driving style, it is not surprising, tinsmiths and car painters are everywhere.

Big blue sign informed that to Rasht Ishould go straight and to Gulam Beach turn left. Last time I heard the word “beach” was in Antalya. So I turned, 5 min later I reached huge beach stretching for miles. It was cloudy and breezy, I parked very close to the water. Fishermen were unwinding fishnets and families were picnicking on blankets.

I haven’t even got off the bike yet, when blankets emptied… Iranian question set was different form Turkish. Iranians ask ….

Where are you from?
How many cylinders in the bike?
Whats the capacity of the tank, how many litres?
Where do you work?
Whats your education?
How you’re doing?
What do you think about Iran and Iranians.

When they exhaust their English knowledge they start from the beginning, for fun?!. Few photos with my camera and dozens with theirs. Policeman in Paykan (Iranian made car) joined the party as well. As usually, “passport please”. They wrote down my name in some book, using car bonnet as a table.

In Fuman I got lost, nothing new. Signposts in farsi are unreadable to me. At last somebody showed me the right way. I drove until the end of the road, and reached small green valley, where surrounded by mountains small village of Masulleh, was ascending on one of the slope as vine. Roofs of lower levels served as floors of higher ones. No pavements, you walk on the roofs of your neighbours until you reach your house.

Elderly men met on the street offered me sleepover. The house was big, the room I was offered was carpeted, there was no beds. It was big enough for 10 men. I took cameras and sleeping bag with me, which was enough. I forgot to take a towel so I had to use a bed sheet instead. In the middle of the room was a gas heater. I was sweating, but apparently it was to cold for them. From the window I could admire surrounding mountains. I took my cameras and tripod and walked down the village to finally climb the hill facing my window. Mud everywhere, when I reached the place with great view on the village, I was covered with mud up to the knees. The view was amazing, village was not big. According to Surus (guy I met on the street, possibly the only one that speaks languages) 850 people live there. Most of them live from tourism, others have small family businesses, shops, bazaars, bakeries. It was after 5pm, still not dark enough for night shots. I felt it would look fabulous illuminated by street lamps, and I wasn’t wrong. Mist descending from the mountains swallowed house after house. By then, sun disappeared behind the mountains. I’m not sure I was able to capture magic of that place on photos. You have to see it. I haven’t regret any minute I’ve spent there. I came back to the bottom of the village in complete darkness. Next, dinner with Surus and a walk on the village roofs. Followed by tea in a tiny and the best café so far, with burning rubbish bins in front... Mist has completely covered whole village, couldn’t see more than 20 m ahead. Few more drags on apple tobacco shisha pipe and……

20 October, Astara, Iran

2007-10-24T06:44:00.000-07:00

Astara, city divided by Azerbaijani-Iranian border. Therefore it wasn’t a surprise when two officers in green uniforms driving parallel to me were shouting and waving to stop. I stopped close to long drainage ditch. I wasn’t alone. For last 3 days I stayed with Hossain, Iranian guide I met on the Turkish border…… He recommended that cheap hotel in Tabriz. On Sunday morning when I was ready to leave for Tehran, phone rang in the hotel. Moosa answered, it was Hossain. He tried to contact me for 2 days. He invited me to his house for few days- to Astara on Kaspian sea. Well I thought I was not in a hurry and I was tired. What happened in Turkey and mileage in recent days aged me a bit. I needed few days of rest.

But going back to policeman…….. Motorbike this big is a rarity in Iran. Wherever I stop I attract public curiosity. One person becomes 40. Everybody take photos with their mobiles. In the country where motorcycle limit is 200cc huge bike like my is a big attraction. Gentlemen from Customs ask for my documents. My only document was polish ID. “You will come with us” I heard. F*** I thought. And I knew that I have to carry passport with me all the time. We arrived at big square with ugly dirty building in the middle. We walked between Azeri waiting for their turn, up to first floor. There we met officer, Mr Big Shot, The Kingpin. We sat down and tea has been served. Hossein was answering all questions while I tasted the tea and played with clod of sugar. After 10 min I was send home to bring my passport. Getting through the city, and then to the village and back was close to 20km. When I came back with passport, Hossein and Mr Big Shot behaved as best friends. I showed all the papers I had, we were apologised for wasted time and fuel and let free.

The only internet café was slower than first computer ever. Uploading one photo takes ages, so I’m sorry my posts will be without them. I will try to catch up in Pakistan. I couldn’t even check mail.

In the evening we decided to have a blast to the other, unknown side of the village. Deeper into mountains. When tarmac ended and road became beaten clay with rocks, I felt like in Cappadocia. Fresh air, light breeze and beautiful greenery. Twisty road….only that deadwood behind (Hossain) didn’t fit. We drove to the point where bulldozer and truck blocked the road. U turn and back to the village. I like places where you can sit with locals smoke shisha pipe. Even if you don’t know their language it seems to be so natural. Everybody communicates with everyone. This kind of place was at the end of the village, where the tarmac ends. It was enough to stop, and everyone who could see it was already there. Tea after tea, Hossein answered the same set of questions, apple taste shisha….. We spotted a party earlier on. Now, one guy told us it were women of the bride and groom families celebrating. Tomorrow is the wedding and they will be delighted if we come. Well I thought ….how many times I will have the opportunity to go to Iranian wedding? Twice! I found out later. We arrived there at 8pm. It was raining cats and dogs. The party was under tent specially built for the wedding. 2 rows of plastic garden furniture and big table for the band at the end of tent. We sat next to the wall. Food was served, chicken leg with rice and some sauce, plus small bowl with veg in vinegar. Pitchers with transparent, water like fluid arrived at the table. It supposed to look as water……but in fact it was made from young wild vines….. For one hour I was treating myself with “water”. All eyes at me, what tourist would do? It was obvious, and I was ready for that, that they would like to see the tourist dancing. For a while I observed what they do. It was enough to spread hands, stamp your feet and all will be OK. I rushed to the dancing floor (read: mud). Started dancing to the rhythm of music that hurt my ears. Some people were coming from the watching crowd and giving me money, handfuls. Applause and whistles never ending… when the song ended I took the money and gave them to music band. That’s what they do. The groom appeared with company. People were approaching them and throwing money on their heads or touching their foreheads with money before putting on the table. I liked the later option, the groom was surprised when a guy in 46 Rossi shirt presented him money. Later when we danced together he hugged and kissed me as family. I have to add here that after an hour or so food and drinks disappeared from the table. If you are hungry go home. Anyway most of the Iranians were drunk already.

Somebody came to us and said that there was another wedding tomorrow and they invite us. I went , why not. Since then I was recognised everywhere in the village. It is nice in here.

I’ve spent a lot of time chatting to Hossain. His daughter and her husband were here for few days. Hossain has his website. He is a guide in Iran, you can find him even in Lonely Planet. www.iranoverland.com . I will stay here until Monday and than to Tehran. It was raining non stop last few days, I didn’t leave the house. Only TV with 1000 channels. BBC, Polsat2 and “ the world according to Kiepski” polish sitcom. And tomorrow F1 finale in Brazil on the Romanian TV. Unfortunately all good ends quickly. My visa expires in 3 weeks. I gave myself 10-12 days more in Iran and than to Pakistan.

13 October, Tabriz. Iran

2007-10-14T11:57:00.001-07:00

Thousands of singing throats woke me up. Today was the end of Ramadan. Holiday and new year all together, big celebration. It was after 7am. When I left the hotel I was shocked. Hundred thousands of people praying at that moment, according to statistics million people. Streets were closed, covered in rugs almost everybody had one. If not they were praying kneeing on newspapers or bags. Men separately from woman. All around people, up to the horizon. From speakers one could hear “MC” and others were repeating. At 8 all disappeared. Since I was up I decided to go sightseeing. I wanted to see that Bazaar Tasha was talking about. I found it, but it was nothing special, because of the holiday everything was closed. I exchanged 100$ with the black marketer. Next corner I met a man, and another one, we were looking for internet café, without success. From one thing to other one of them promised to sell me 20liters of fuel for 20000rials, great. When I was standing if front of shop with mobile phones, young men approached me, and spoke English. I wanted to buy a SIM card, because my phones don’t work here. He didn’t really understand what I wanted. Two other joined us. One of them offered his phone card so I could call Ewelina. Later gave me a tour of the neighborhood. Showed some ancient church (2000 years old) and café internet, I am right now writing . Next took me to the bus and gave me 2 tickets. I arrived to Agoli park. I didn’t like it to much. There , I had the best kebab so far, and the price was also “the best” 60 000!!! I paid 100 000 for hotel. I was stunned. Its almost 7 bucks! I don’t know maybe I was ripped off. The guy used abacus! 21^st century and he used abacus! I joined 2 guys at the table so maybe I’ve paid for them!!! No idea. However kebab was jaw dropping, so maybe the price was right.

When bus was approaching the stop I was still quite far. So started to run, driver honked that he is waiting. I got in and wanted to pay, he replied NO and pointed seat next to him. All others were standing and I sat next to the driver! I could see the chaos on the street as through his eyes. Scary!!! When we arrived I thanked again, again I am not paying for something, only pity those are pennies ;)

I came back to my hotel, cooked myself coffee, and came here. Unfortunately I forgot usb cable so no photos today, I will try to upload them tomorrow in Teheran. Karaj is more realistic. Buzz and Tasha have a friend there, he is supposed to show me the town. I sent him an email, if he replies would be awesome. If not I would have to do it on my own. In Teheran I need to service my bike in BMW and register in embassy. Again, another Japanese student was kidnapped….

Iran it’s a cultural mega shock. You could see woman and its allowed to hold hands on the street. However hands and face are the only things one could see. They look like Zorros, but all have modern cell phone, camera etc…

12.October. Degubayazit - Tabriz

2007-10-14T09:59:00.000-07:00

I had breakfast looking at Mt Ararat, its summit was all covered in snow. Visibility was much better than yesterday. For breakfast as usually bread, jam, butter, olives (bleeee) and chai. It was just after 8am. At 8.30 I made for the petrol station to tank only 5 more liters of fuel. It should be enough to get to Maku, first village on the Iranian side where I could buy petrol card.

I arrived at the border maybe 1 hr later, I stopped once for a final photo of Mt Ararat where according to bible Noah’s Ark could be found. I also found out later on, that it takes 3 days and 600 Euros to climb to the summit. Leaving Turkey was as eventful as arriving, from one customs officer to the other. First stamp at the gate, then to the office where the guy, when we were left alone, pretended not to be able to find me in his database. I had time. Seeing that it was not leading anywhere and I didn’t give a damn he miraculously found me in his computer. Now to the Iranian side. One more gate, passport, checking stamps, if all there etc. Gate had opened and this way I was in Iran. Next, Iranian bureaucracy. First, officer took my passport and asked to follow him. “Mister Marcin”- I heard form the counter, “welcome to Iran!” No…that easy? – I thought. “ Now go there with your pass and carnet” So I went, The guy run through my papers and sent me to another one that was napping with legs high up on the table. I started with my poor Farsi. The men with moustache looked at me, then at my carnet and notes of the other guy w/o moustache. He stamped my papers 3 times , tore a page, and disappeared. Came back after 5 min- “welcome to Iran- You can go”.

All together took me 2.5 hr including Turkish side. Not to bad. Earlier I met a group of Brits and Ozis, traveling from London to Sydney by bus. They had problems with their carnet. Company that issued the papers abandoned a broken down bus somewhere in Iran last week. So now they didn’t want to let them in, The guide traveling with them who spoke Farsi Hossein (check his www.iranoverland.com ) had to use all his connections to get them in. At last they’ve made it. They had to pay 250 Euros as a guarantee that they would take care and remove the bus in case it breaks down. The guide proposed that I could join them and would squeeze me into the hotel with them as a member of the group. Great I thought! Nice company for evening, they even liked my “project”. I have never seen so many mobiles photographing my bike. I had to wait for them 2.5 hrs. We left the border together. I have to add that one of the customs officer asked for the key and had a run on my beemer and he was happy as never. We had to go 600 meters down the street to buy insurance, They paid 150Euro for the bus, I paid 46. Well, I thought. Turkey 10 now is 46. But it was for some kind of assurance “ If you kill somebody give one page from these papers and you are free” they’ve explained. Great.

When I was buying my insurance the bus left. I was supposed to meet them in Maku to buy petrol card. I found out later on that one of the organizers didn’t want to wait for me as they were already delayed. I was angry, because I did wait for them 2.5 hrs. They could have wait 54min. I got lost in Maku, I didn’t find the office. I run to far just to see disappearing bus. F***, I thought I would catch them later. I asked 2 guys on scooters where I could buy that card. They told me to follow them because they go there anyway. We arrived at the petrol station and I shook my head that I need the card first. AAA…. Said one of them. I promised to give them 5 liters of petrol (they have a limit of 3/day) to show me the way to office. He jumped on my bike and we went together. In that office I was asked to show my passport and pay 500 000 Rials. I just had enough exchanging before 50$ on the blackmarket.

The card was for 100 liters of petrol. On the station I had to pay extra 1000 rials/litre. It gives 6000 rials/litre equivqlent to 30p/litre. I refueled the bike plus 5 liters for scooter. Then all wanted photo on the bike, crap – bus was at least half hour ahead. At last I could leave and rushed to catch them, which I did 1 hr later. They stopped for lunch somewhere, guys were playing rugby, women enjoyed their time without scarfs. I stopped there I was greeted by guys I met at the border. I was still trailing the bus when it got pitch black.

Traveling by dark in Iran it’s a suicide. Concentration on the highest level. I wanted to overtake, looked into mirrors, nobody, when I turned the indicator on, I was blinded by long light from behind. Driving with lights on is a crime in Iran. So, I got to the hotel with them, but in meantime they gave up on helping me. Told me to get a room on my own, I was pissed off. Iranian guide apologised to me 1000 times for the Brits. In that hotel they wanted 35 dollars, no thanks. Somebody recommended Park Hotel, it can be found in Lonely Planet! Toilet on ski jumper position (Malysz style) shower with hot water running after10 min. Rooms clean with 3 beds. I parked beemer in hotel restaurant! All for 10$ :D Not to bad.

I was meeting some of the bus tour guys in the other hotel. We were going to eat and chat. I got there by taxi, I tried my Farsi again. Driver was so excited he gave me a free ride. There was nobody in the hotel, I found them in the Pizzeria. The brits went for pizza in Iran ?! Lucky for me they bought to many pizzas and gave me one. Then few people including me went to explore the town. We came across a beautiful mosque. Unfortunately I didn’t have any camera, but I’ll take photo today. We decided to enter. Our shoes were put in the special locker. Inside we were offered a tea. What a country….- I thought. We left wishing each other good luck .

I wandered little longer and found a nice “café”. Chai and small kebab. 30p for two teas and kebab. Goodnight.

11 October .Degubayazit

2007-10-11T16:01:00.000-07:00

Few photos first, more to follow.........

10 October. Erzorum

2007-10-11T15:56:00.000-07:00

I didn’t want to stay there for a night. I wanted to get to the border quickly and across to Iran. Simon told me a lot about Iran. That it’s cheap, people are great and it is really awesome.

In Erzincan I got a full tank and went to the shop adjacent to the station. Inside only woman giggling, smiling at me, I don’t know why.

Maybe, because I was unshaven? Or so dirty?… I purchased 3 packs of cookies, jumped on the bike and took off.

I passed by a part of the city with many car repair workshops, every city has one. When spotted a shop I entered it in hope to buy stickers I was looking for since I came to Turkey. I found them! I was so exited I bought two. The guy also removed some of the asphalt stuck to my bike, I forgot to mention that on the way to Erzincan I had to ride 5km on the road where just asphalt was poured and covered with gravel. The bike was grimy with pitch.

I took off again, road as a road with quite decent views. In Erzorum at the junction I saw a guy that could hardly wait for green light. I started a fraction faster, he caught me and overtook just to brake rapidly and turn right. I didn’t brake in time and crashed into his back. I tried to turn to avoid him so I didn’t hit with my front wheel only with crashbars and the tank. I could hold on to the bike, when stopped, got off the bike and threw my gloves.

I started to yell at the guy who did the same. I was jumping as a rabbit on the road to explain and show him that he is an idiot. I didn’t know what to do. To call police or not. More and more people were coming. Now-I thought- if police comes I’m in trouble. 100 men saw it was my fault. I got out a duct tape from paniers and started to fix the damage. After few minutes I got on the bike and drove off. The guy just waved with his hands. 20 km later I stopped to calm down and drink some water. The engine didn’t want to start again. I started to panic. Few texts to Zaba, she made a couple of phone calls to get help. To Steve in BMW Dalkeith, to Steve and Dave-datatool guy in Saltire. They said it could be few things. Alarm was going off on his own, I couldn’t hear the pomp, maybe fuel pressure? I lifted the tank, and spilled petrol all over me.

A guy speeded by on the GSX-R, I could hear Yoshi from far. I didn’t know if he saw me waving. Hi did. Came back shortly. Murad, he is an optician. Owns a shop with glasses and many other things. I gestured what was wrong. He grabbed his phone and started to call. I could hear TAMAM TAMAM all the time. In the meantime I checked all the fuses as guys recommended, under the tank was the alarm fuse- burnt! Bingo. Murad jumped on the bike and after 20 min came back with fuses. After next 30min fuel tank was back on the bike, ignition ON and the engine started to talk to me again. Awsome! So I decided to stay in Erzorum.

Murad said that the bike goes to his garage and I go to hotel. Garage turned out to be his shop with glasses and hotel…. Well.. hotel. I didn’t want to pay for a hotel more than 25lir. And I didn’t. Later on I found out that he paid the extra 10. At 8pm we met in his shop, more people started to come. Murad sent somebody to bring me food. Fresh tea was on my table all the time. Later came Ahmed. He jumped on my bike and rode away, and we after him by car. I don’t understand Turkish and could only recognize TAMAM TAMAM. We arrived at the workshop and they already worked on my bike. Fender already fixed, more guys came and cleaned the bent, when started to pat and straighten it petrol begun to leak. They quickly drained the tank or I should say Mahamad did (he looks like young John Torturro). Mahamad sucked the fuel through a pipe as professional. The hole was cleaned and a screw with special glue was put into it, “We will see tomorrow“ they said. In the meantime other guys fixed indicator from Honda J , it worked! Today morning everything proved to work fine. No leak, glue became hard as metal. Now only to carwash. I didn’t pay for anything! Repair, mechanics, spraying the tank, wash, dinner or today’s breakfast – not a penny. I felt very happy today. When I was saying goodbye I cried. I was overwhelmed. I said , if it wasn’t for them my trip could have end up there. I think that was the best thanks for them. Even now I shed a tear. I am so grateful for their selfless and candid help.

So I got to Degubayazit. Tomorrow Iran! There, probably the real thing will begin…

9 October. Goreme-Rafahiye

2007-10-11T11:18:00.000-07:00

I left Goreme with heartache. That place was unbelievable. If only Zaba was there with me. A magical location.

I rushed in the morning to get as far as possible. Towards Erzurum. I knew I wouldn’t get there but I had to try. Erzincan was more realistic. I could have spent the night there and next day get to Degubayazit. I stopped for a coffee few times and once for lunch. And of course I paid too much again, or at least I thought so.

I don’t know why it took me so long, but even Erzincan started to look beyond my reach. Just before place the name I don’t remember any more, I was stopped by a military police. Passport this….passport that…. They hold me there for 20 min. It was getting dark. Next to the petrol station was a hotel. A guy with wide smile said 40 lir. I replied with even wider one “no thanks” and left. I spotted nice clearing and got there through some mud. I set my campsite just next to the stream. In meantime I started a bonfire. Somebody had seen it and started to shout form the street. I quickly extinguished it, but nobody came. I don’t know what he wanted. Maybe thought that something is on fire and wanted to know if it is under control. I was quite scared that somebody would come and threw me out. The night was quiet and peaceful though. But it was the coldest night from all. I slept in motorcycle gear in 2 sleeping bags and my teeth were clanking.

I got up at 6am and before 7 was on my way. 20 min later I got to in Erzincan. Now the target was Degubayazit but I didn’t get there.

8 October. Göreme

2007-10-09T16:01:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I saw off Chris and 2 Israelis from the hotel to the bus station. Chris is an American, she travels around Europe for 4 months. And she has “only” 7 left! Today she is flying to Egypt, then to Kenya – climbing Kilimanjaro. After that Zanzibar, Zimbabwe, RSA. And after that to India where she should be in January. Chris was a great companion during our stay there. On Saturday we jumped on the bike and went to small place Derinkuyu. There is an underground city people were hiding during enemy attacks. In that 8-storey place were the mosque, school, kitchen, rooms. It was interesting but not entirely satisfying. 8 –storey sounds like 2hrs of exploring but we finished after 30min.

Next we went to see Ihlara Valley. A mini Great Canyon. Wonderfull place to rest, stroll, hike or even camp. Only the fact that they charged us 5 lirs to enter national park. Clouds started to crawl. Already on the way to Ilhara showered a bit. So we decided to go back. Sun was hiding behind dense clouds and it became quite chilly.

In the late evening bonfire and chatting until 4 am. We have started new tradition in the hotel. Bonfires take place in front of my tent which I like. I am a kind of an outlaw. All others stay in the rooms, only me in the tent. Guy with cojones! Its freaking cold during night, even two sleeping bags are not enough.

It started feel empty in the hotel. Nathan from Canada left, Chris left, Yair from Israel is also going home. One couple still here, Canadian of Dutch origin and Turk she met in the bus, and he came with her to Goreme. Something like a holiday fling, I would say. Yesterday we had dinner together. Vulcan prepared salad and grilled sausages, yummy.

Today I’ve spent my time in different way. Biking in the valleys, a bit of offroading. There were times it was difficult, squeezing between rocks, sometimes scratching the sandstone with my crashbars. Two times I almost fell, and once when I stopped for “Cannon moment” BMW decided to fell down. This time it was easier to put in on the wheels. And I am still furious that the camera on my helmet doesn’t work and I don’t know how to solve that problem.

Tomorrow packing and further travel towards Iran. I just got email from Simon, he is there now. Petrol costs 6000 rials which is apparently very cheap. You only need to estimate how much you will need and buy a petrol card on the border. 100 liters cost 40 EUR, it won’t be as cheap as some people told they had. One day I had to count if I have enough dollars.

5-7. October. Göreme.

2007-10-09T15:16:00.000-07:00

Few pics first.
Na razıe kılka fotek.

4 October. Antalya- Konya

2007-10-09T15:14:00.000-07:00

That was a day! I started before 9am. I had more than 500km to Goreme in Cappadocia. I didn’t get there that day. I traveled through the most beautiful mountains I have seen so far in Turkey. Twisty and fast. Trees on one side abyss on the other. After few hours my stomach demanded food. I stopped in some village where I smelled fried meat. I was ripped off first time since coming to this country. I paid twice as much as I would in the center of Istanbul! But I didn’t want to argue. And after an hour of kind service and nice chat , I didn’t see it coming. I left leaving big cloud of dust.... F*** this. This is Turkey great kindness of some people mixed with greed of others.

I passed Konya around 5pm. To Goreme I had 200km more. Mountains finished and planes started.

It started with sand storm. I couldn’t see for 50 meters. The wind became stronger and stronger, after few minutes it turned into the worst wind and rain I had ever traveled in. Two times I have almost ended up under the truck, and they didn’t care...

I’m not going any further I thought. Setting a camping in this conditions was impossible. Gas station. From one gesture to the other, they told me to wait in the restaurant. I got chi and around 7pm together with 17 Turks I had Ramadan dinner for ½ price what I paid those buggers in mountains. And of course police came, asked standard set of questions, then photo. Exchange of emails, addresses, and again I was called CRAZY.

I set my tent on the concrete floor. That was the coldest night so far. Early morning at 6am I said good bye to the guard. I received traditional Turkish farewell, touching with both sides of the forehead. At 11.30 I arrived to Goreme. And there shock....

3 October. Antalya

2007-10-09T14:26:00.000-07:00

I slept very long. The city is not particularly interesting. If not for the mountains on one side and see on the other I wouldn’t even stop here.

Ordinary sea resort, where every second building is a hotel or pension. I’ve spent some time lazing on the beach, writing diary and sipping bear. I have to add that beer was not that cheap, but I couldn’t deny myself small tasting of national brew. It was called Efes.

Early afternoon was approaching. Guy at the reception gave me a map with all tourists attractions around. Not far (90 km) from Antalya there is a small place Olimpos. Where narrow path leads to the place where according to mythology Bellerofon on back of winged Pegasus defeated Chimera. I got to the place with flat rock, ascending steeply up, with many holes blazing fire. Everywhere stunk gas. I was face to face with mythology.

At the bottom there are still Byzantine ruins. And during those time this site was popular. I came back to the hotel after dark. Last km I did on the fumes of petrol. Petrol, unfortunately is the biggest expense in Turkey. 1 liter was more than one pound.

2 October. Simlav-Antalya

2007-10-09T13:55:00.000-07:00

We woke up at 9 am. And because we had eaten at 2 am there was no need to stand up at 4 am to eat some meat as they sometimes do. My farewell was almost with honors, like for a family member.

Last photo in front of the factory. 548km of tough journey before me, in the heat and not very promising roads to Antalya. There I wanted to stop for a rest. Sights were beautiful, and once again I swear that camera didn’t work.

Because I started 20 minutes after woke up, I arrived to Antalya quite early. Maybe at 5pm. First problem was camping, wild not possible, it’s a big city after all. I didn’t want do it outside of the city, because I wanted to do sightseeing and couldn’t leave all the equipment alone. Hotel was the only possibility. At this time of the year hotels are empty so I could bargain a good price for a room, 4^th floor hotel Koblenz. The owner, elder guy, that worked 22 years in Koblenz selling Kebabs and etc. Now

came back and built 8-storey hotel at the beach with 40 rooms.

Standing with the bike close to the beach I heard sirens

and saw 4 policemen on 2 BMWs F650GS. They shouted something and waved their hands. As it appeared they only wanted to talk about the bike. How great it looks! how far I ride ! And that I have to be very brave!

In the evening short sightseeing and beer on the beach

1 October. Simlav

2007-10-09T13:09:00.000-07:00

I left before 10 am to Istanbul harbour that was maybe 10 min from the Sinbad motel. I bought ferry ticket to Yalova. For 30 lir it was even worth, this way I avoided traffic travelling around. On the ferry I met Mustafa who lives in Bursa. He was a good company, even bought me a tea, but didn’t drink himself, you know its Ramadan. From Yalova to Antalya, app 700km. Not possible on those roads. I knew I would have to stop somewhere for the night. Sights were superb and it looked that I would finally camp….Self brewed tea, and instant Chinese soup , that I bought in Rabka….

On the suburbs of Bursa I came across BMW salon. I stopped there, anyway I needed a rest. Guys in suits welcomed me as real traveller. Standard set of questions. Photos.

They told me that there is a nice lake not far where I could camp. Great, they had a rideout there 2 weeks ago with clients. They showed me maps and how to get there. But I’ve never got there. I got to Simlav. I stopped there at petrol station, the best place to find information. Motorbike again became the centre of interest and everybody wanted to help. I asked about the lake. They said there is no. I told them with hand language that I’m tired and want to kip, the best on the campsite. One said I could camp at the station. OK, we looked , there was not enough space. On the grassland behind there are apparently some snakes… Other one said to follow him. His name was Mustafa, exactly second guy I met and the same name. On the other side of the street was a building. Quite big and shabby. In front the grass was just cut. “here” said Mustafa. Great. “but diner first” he added. He’s invited me inside, inside was a sunflower oil factory. Everywhere sacks with sunflower seed, tins with oil and big oil containers. Noise of the machines , smell of sunflower seeds created the mood. We ate, had some chai and then tey took me to Turkish baths. When I started to unpack my tent, Mustafa stopped me and said that I would sleep in his house, next nice surprise.

At 2 am there was a supper , because they are not aloud to eat meat after that. Than bed, I slept like a log. In the morning they bid me farewell and I rode away to Antalya. I got there at 5pm.

29-30 September. Istanbul

2007-10-09T12:54:00.000-07:00

Journey from Sozopol took me little more than 7hrs. Didn’t seem far, but still… Roads from Sozopol to Turkish border were dreadful as under construction. Hole on the hole. On the border-first contact with bureaucracy. One widow to get visa, the other to get stamp next to visa. Third to insure motorbike for a month.. Later again to the same one for more stamps. I don’t know how long it takes if its crowded. It took me about 40 min. I was almost leaving when 2 officers stopped me. One spoke English the other one didn’t talk. I was asked to the booth by the “mute” one. He looked at my papers and said 10 Euro! “I am not going to pay” I replied and that I already paid for everything. I went out to ask the other one for what I suppose to pay? “Everything OK. now” I heard behind. Interesting isn’t it? Now its only 250 km to Istanbul. It took me some time. In the first town – I don’t remember the name- I stopped to withdraw some Turkish cash, I looked at the post with the clock and thermometer.......

Now motorway and Istanbul. First 80 km were OK., empty, almost to traffic. But later it started to get dense. Traffic changed into soup of cars, only three lanes but 5 cars. Incoming cars just joined without stopping, even looking. Short beep on the horn and I should know. Complete chaos but it seemed to work. Overtaking on the right left, and middle. Cement-mixers in the middle driving 100 kmh, big trucks half a meter from you!!! Dreadful . I paid the toll – 4.5 lir and so I was in Istanbul.

The vastness of the city hit me when I stopped on some bridge to have a look and ask a policeman where to go. Michal gave mi

address to a hotel which I obsessively tried to find. I knew it would take time to locate it. Heat was killing me. Water was running out. Motorbike oil started to boil, I was stuck in the traffic every 200 meters. Everybody honked , exhaust fumes from old buses stunk. I sweat like hell. I strayed for2.5 hrs before I found the hotel, and it was an ordeal. They didn’t have any more beds on the roof and only one available room. It was a little expensive, but what the hell… I’ve spent one day and two nights in Istanbul. First night I went out to see what’s illuminated, and there was a lot! I got to the big square just next to Sultanahmet. Thousands of people, thousands! Eating, chatting, buying enjoying themselves. Carousels, electric cars big festival. I sat a while on the bench, grabbed a doner to eat, wandered around and went to sleep. Tomorrow F1 GP on Fuji. The city is massive, unofficially lives here more than 20 millions people plus tourists. Lots of Poles Russians and Chinese. I even found Russian quarter, I’ll write about the city some other time.

26th September, Obzor. Bulgaria.

2007-10-02T14:07:00.000-07:00

I like Bulgaria, very much. Few km south of Romanian border and imidately everything looks different. Less dogd, more hills and forests. People somehow different. First nice surprise form elderly woman. I felt I need some fruit, so I stopped in the middle of the village, the name I can’t pronounce. She had a small stall with melons and watermelons there. I remember the price was 0.40 /kg. The one I chose was 3 kg. “ give me one stupinka and we are good” she said. “it’s not enough” I replied with hand language. “that’s fine, and take this small melon as well” And so, with 5kg of fruit in quantity of 2 I continued to Varna. The city turned out to be bigger than I thought. Huge harbor, even park in the city was full of ships, between which mothers with kids were having a walk. I have to add that all mums and other women are really beautiful. J I wanted to stay there for a night, but all that traffic and noise put me off. I found a small town called Obzor on the map. It was a right choice. It was lovely there. One feels as on the French Riviera, or Greece on the Adriatic. Everything surprises. People are cheerful, it is colorful, sea is wonderful and only 150 meters from my room, which decent price I haggled over .

In the towns you could buy anything and “original” . Dolce&Gabana, Levi’s, Ferrari F1 team, Renault F1, Ray Ban, Tissot or Rolex. Haven on earth. And you could stuff yourself with “original” gyros Bulgarian way. Fried meat with onion and extras wrapped in omelette , and beer for 2 Zloty and the beach , can you match that?

26th September Constanta

2007-10-02T12:28:00.000-07:00

Yesterdays evening, was what I was waiting for. Fantastic warm evening, light breeze. Myself , full moon and empty beach. Rest of the Vincia in the bottle. Water boiling on the stove, for my soup. All alone with nature. What else do I need? More days like this where all the misery of life or pursuit of happiness has no meaning. In the evening I’ve finished the bottle with Traian Deceban. In appreciation he gave me picture of the Virgin Mary, guarding travellers. I don’t believe in it but it’s the gesture that matters to me. And photo.

Romania, Constanta. 25th September

2007-09-30T15:10:00.000-07:00

I didn’t get to Romania the first day. It appeared to be to far. When I was approaching Slovakian border I couldn’t control myself. I had to stop every 100 meters to take a photo . Tatra mountains are beautiful and weather was good. One could admire them in whole beauty. Considering the distance I had to ride, I decided not to stop again.
I don’t remember where, I got lost a bit. But this is not important, its were I dropped the bike for the first time! Silly thing, I sat on the bike, fold the stand, turned the key and started the engine. Bike was on first gear, you can imagine the rest, full embarrassment. Plenty of onlookers but nobody to help. F*** It took lots of sweat to put it back on wheels. Only then I felt how heavy the bike is. No damage, crash bars and panniers did their job. One more fuelling and I entered Hungary. After Miskolc I’ve put up my tent on some lake. I was exhausted and it was getting dark. I cooked some soup and tea. Sink into double sleeping bag and slept like a baby. I will have to get used to all strange sounds…..
Next day I got to Romania. And momentarily traffic changed . Everybody who doesn’t have a Dacia was speeding to break a neck. Overtaking as third is normal. 100km/hr through the city as well. Romanian villages shocked me. Life is focused along main road where one can sit and observe the traffic. Rest of the roads just ground and rocks, no tarmac. I felt bad even to stop and take photos. It looks that nobody has money. However all have the newest mobile phones. I attract attention wherever I go. Motorbike particularly. Just yesterday, some guy insisted to have a photo on my bike. Well….
It is not to bad so far, but not as I imagined. I wanted more camps in beautiful scenery. Unfortunately besides Carpathians, Romania is flat as table, crop fields everywhere and no trees. Only Carpathian mountains gave me some satisfaction. Beautiful bends, corners, and mountains.
I miss Zaba (Ewelina), it’s a pity we couldn’t do it together. Talking to myself suppose to be fun, but its not. And there is so long left. Will I manage? I don’t know. More east should be cheaper and more hospitable. We will see…
I can’t upload any photos here so will be without.
Keep your fingers crossed!!

Day 22 Rabka – direction Romania

2007-09-30T15:09:00.001-07:00

Its 7.54 am, rabka. Weather looks promising, sunny. Morning dew is covering the grass. It is chilly. I’m writing these words sipping over sweetened coffee. I just have to eat some breakfast put my stuff together and load onto the bike. In few hours I will be leaving towards Romania. There will be no motorways so no high speeds. I will enter Slovakia from Lysa Polana, next to Miskolc and finally to Debrecyn, From there only few km to Oradea in Romania. Keep your fingers crossed. I don’t know when I will be able to write here again.

Days 18-21

2007-09-30T15:07:00.000-07:00

All4 days I’ve spent travelling between Krakow and Rabka, where my mother lives. Couple of days here and couple there. I love Krakow, and I know that one day I will be back here. I can’t imagine better place to retire. Krakow is changing. You can see new investments, roads are getting better, bypasses are being built. The most jammed streets are now the least , and streets in the centre are getting jammed now. New buildings shoot up as mushrooms after rain.
Tenement houses of the market square and around are meticulously restored. It is beautiful.

I visited some of my friends, Maciek and Magda, Monika. Dorian called me today, TVP reporter I talked to when I was in Warszawa. Dorian is interested to do short documentary about me for local news – Kronika Krakowska. I didn’t say no. Television has power! We finished shooting on Wednesday 19^th around 1pm. It was aired the same day in the evening edition of Kronika Krakowska and in Teleexpress by night at 22.45. It is weird to see yourself in the telly, even worse to hear in stereo, I have thick highland accent!

Finally I’ve realised that very soon the real adventure would start. There will be no friends where I go. I would have to plan camping every day, cook for myself, plan every next day, and so on… I only have 5 weeks until my Iranian visa expires, I have to hurry..

Day 17 Warszawa –Krakow

2007-09-30T15:05:00.000-07:00

That was Sunday. Formula 1 day on my favourite circuit, Spa-Francorchamps. That was a superb race for me. Kimi Raikkonen won it , fourth win this season, I was delighted. Additionally Robert Kubica had quite a good race. All the time he had to fight for positions, for 44 laps. He started 13 th so he had a lot to do, finally he finished 9 th, just after points. My train back to Krakow was at 5pm. I was waiting on the platform staring at the train, but didn’t get in. I wanted to go to Krakow not to Przemysl – where the train was heading. After 20 min of waiting, and the train was long gone , I realised that it was my train. I had buy new reserved-seat ticket. This time it was Warszawa-Krakow train, I got to Krakow one hour late but I got there!

Day 14-15 Warszawa

2007-09-30T15:03:00.000-07:00

Brrr… That’s how I thought about our capitol city. I was there a couple of times but I always tried to come back to Krakow as soon as possible. Something here always repelled me. It is difficult to expect from a completely destroyed city to even the beauty of Krakow and its sights. There is an old part of Warszawa but it is not the same……

This time there were more people to visit, but lets start from the beginning.

Straight from the train I walked to Pakistani embassy. Just 3 km. Embassy.. empty.

Leaving the elevator you bump directly to white close doors with small window. Just like in old times in pharmacies and village shops. “what do you want?..visa?…300zl and a week Sir” Damn, I thought. One week! I didn’t want to wait so long, and for sure not in Warszawa.From embassy I got to “Rekwizytornia” company run by Magda. She rents movie props. Great stuff. In the storage you could find old cameras, chairs, police uniforms, old national costumes, all kinds of bottles, globes and so on…. I could continue for ever… Madga together with Michal, Monika and always smiling Maurycy, took me to the museum of Warsaw uprising. One of the most interesting museum I’ve ever been to.

I also met friends from Goettingen, no actually one old friend.

That was a great visit. I didn’t wait 7 days. I went back to Krakow on Sunday, and Michal picked up my passport and sent it to me by UPS, great…

Day 13 Wroclaw – Krakow

2007-09-30T15:02:00.000-07:00

That was pure pleasure, riding to Krakow. I could hardly wait, therefore continuously was breaking the speed limits. I love Krakow, and I wanted to be there as soon as possible. Road was superb, From Wroclaw up to Krakow bypass was flat as a table, fast sometimes even 3 lanes. The whole journey took me less than 4 hrs. I came to Maciek, unloaded the bike and parked it in the storage. That was it, for riding during next few days.Trip to Warszawa by train and stress in Pakistani embassy is awaiting me tomorrow.

Day 12 Berlin – Wroclaw

2007-09-30T15:01:00.000-07:00

I left Berlin about 11 am. At some point we were stuck in the traffic jam. I’m furious if I can’t squeeze between cars. Now I am as wide as “maluch” (polish 126 Fiat), unbelievable..

Maciek and Marta accompanied me to the motorway. I filled my tank on Aral station, or maybe Shell…. Few hugs, white tissue waving and I was off towards Dresden. After 4.5hrs I arrived in Wroclaw.

Day 10-11 Berlin

2007-09-30T14:59:00.000-07:00

I drunk to much yesterday. “przepalanka” was exceptionally good. It reminded me my father and his ritual of preparing this home made vodka. Arek came, that cheered me up. I haven’t spoken to him for ages. And I haven’t seen my brother and his wife since March which was a tough month for our family. We have reminisced old times with help from vodka.

This time I wanted to see Berlin by night. Stroll on illuminated river promenade resulted in few good photos.

Arek showed me Berlin from completely different perspective. Specifically from the push bike seat. I with camera, he with tripod under his arm, rode along Berlin wall. When I looked at that wall I tried to imagine what a citizen of East Berlin felt waking up in the morning and seeing soldiers guarding western paradise. The wall is not that high, but without help not easy to conquer. Nowadays, it is decorated with thousands of graffiti, some are even decent.

Day 9 Goettingen Berlin

2007-09-30T14:57:00.000-07:00

Of course, I didn’t leave as early as I wanted. I was tempted by side roads, particularly those through Harz national park. Beautiful hills and lakes. However, just few km from the town it started to rain. I didn’t want to stop to put the “condom” on. But once cold started to get into all parts of my body I gave in. Parking by LIDL was quite empty, so I stopped there. I dig out my rain suit and after 10 min I was in it. It’s a nightmare to put it on, and it rained all the time. Under, my suit was wet…

I entered Harz in rain and mist. I couldn’t see further than 20 meters. I had few minor slides on white paint. When I saw signs for motorway I thought I should take it, minute later, I should not.

I continued in snails pace. After 1 hr riding with mist on the visor I took exit to motorway. At 5pm I was in Berlin. I found my brothers house easily. Beer…..

Day 7-8 Goettingen

2007-09-30T14:55:00.000-07:00

After 3.5 years living in Edinburgh I haven’t noticed any changes in Goettingen. Streets look the same, same shops in same places. One thing hit me though. It was emptier. There is definitely less people on the streets. It is pretty and colourful. However I am not sure I would like to come back here.

I didn’t go to mensa (German student canteen) because I still think that lunch at 12pm is a mistake. I left home at 3pm heading to the Institute. After coffee with Jezus I took Kazik to town centre. As my photography guru his job was to teach me few tricks. We were shooting for an hour or so. Than we went to Karstadt and Media Markt because I needed an external disc for my photos. I bought it next day.

My stay in Goettingen was great which I spent drinking and chatting to old friends. But, Berlin calls…..

Day6 Heidelberg to Goettingen

2007-09-30T14:49:00.001-07:00

I decided not to use motorways anymore. German Autobahns are superb, fast and smooth as a table but…, yes, there is but…they are incredibly boring. Bends are profiled so they feel like straights. I’ve chosen longer route, time consuming but twisty. And that was first time so far I really enjoyed riding. Weather was good, few showers, winds, but it didn’t bother me. I had 250 miles to do, which makes 6-7 hrs on B roads. Route was great, twisty roads, uphill bends, tight corners and beautiful views. Once I scratched the road with my panniers, forgot I have them and that bike behaves different. Specially during breaking from high speeds. Rear was sliding like Yamaha under Rossi. I was so into the road that I stopped only to piss and drink some tea. I didn’t want to stop so no photos…

I won’t forget entering Goettingen. I arrived from the direction Baggersee. Here in this town, I’ve spent 3 years of my life. I felt strange. I new each junction, each shortcut, each passed building… I smiled. It was a good idea to come here. I arrived at Pawel and Renia’s exactly 6.5 hrs after I left Heidelberg. I unloaded the bike, panniers here, tyres there. Bike trousers “needed air”, I have few complaints about them, there should be more ventilation. I wonder whose fault is this, jacket is great, loads of ventilators on arms, back and front. Trousers have small vents at the thigh level and that’s it. After few hours my bum was surely red! Well they will have to do. I got my coffee and beer. Beer went quick with no question. 2 hours later I was sitting with Kazik and Pawel aka Jezus in Mercedes, speeding 170kmh to Hanover to pick up Misiek. He can not wait, we mustn’t be late! We cam back before 12am.

Day 4-5 Heidelberg

2007-09-30T14:44:00.000-07:00

I liked Heidelberg at first. At second visit less so, third time I realised it is a bit to small. For me is to cramped. One has a feeling that there is one street only, parallel to the river and were city life is going on.

The beauty of Fachheauser destroyed by Rossman, New Yorker, LIDL and other shops. Everything can be admired from the castle terrace, ruins of the castle I should say, that absolutely captivates you already from the distance. Scaffolds of that castle I have climbed together with A at day 4.

I don’t know why, maybe we were bored or we wanted to get a glimpse of city view from different perspective. Less touristy, original. However, if not for the bottle of vodka+glasses+juice it would be ordinary scaffold climbing. We have spent few hours up there talking, discussing, comparing, philosophising…

“one could organise a concert here, violins and big contrabasses here… auience there…”

“…But, I would need a big balloon with hot air and women inside howling to the music…” I added “ and flying dragons…”

When ruins disappeared in the darkness and last lamps illuminating gothic and renaissance buildings were shut we have climbed down. Short walk home on the deserted streets , it was worth…

Fifth day was a pursuit of “the photo”… didn’t work out. I just found an excellent poster that fits to my dream, my trip. “Dein Traum wird wahr"- your dream will come true, just great!

I felt really good there. I recalled old memories talking to Dominika, Lukasz and Aska. Aga gave me cosy home for a few days and I appreciate that.

Stuck in Poland

2007-09-17T05:02:00.000-07:00

dear friends!it has been a while since last post. I will update my blog very soon and will post a lot of nice pictures. I am still travelling but stuck for some time in Poland as there is a delay with pakistani visa. I am in Krakow now (home sweet home) waiting .....

Day 3. Oxford - Heidelberg 578 miles.

2007-09-06T02:05:00.000-07:00

This was ment to be a motorway day. I got up at 4 am to be sure I get to Dover for 9 am. I left at 5. I made a wrong turn and ended up in oxford centre.Damn, i've lost maybe 20 min. Finally i did find M40 direction LOndon, then M25 and M20 to Dover. Got there with 1,5 hour to spare. I;ve met a very nice couple. He on a Varadero 1000, she on a F 650 Gs. They were on the way to Black Forrest. "where are you going, someplace cool?"-they asked. "Nepal"-I said like it was a short trip to Morrisons for a pizza. I will never forget they surpriced faces. Few days back they have read about me on UKGSER website. World is very small.

I wasn't crying watching GB dissapearing. I have left a very comfortable bed behind me. Dinners every night i everything else i got used to for last 3,5 years. And my wife of course who cries from time to time because she cares about me.This feeling scared me a little bit because i realised this is it. Now the Journey starts.

Ferry reached Calais at Noon. Now there will be just speeding on motorways all the way down to Heidelberg. I wanted to get there before dark, as everybody knows I hate riding at night. Distance was huge. Welcome in Belgium, welcome in netherlands, welcome in Bundesrepublic Deutschland. I did a mistake and took wrong turn. When i saw a Tram i brussel i knew i need to turn back. After this the road was long and booooring. From Brussels direction Leuven, then Aachen, Koln, Koblenz, very long queue, Ludwigshafen, Mannheim, Heidelberg. I did not have any problems finding Aga's address as I have been to heidelberg before. I did 578 miles from Oxford to HD in 15 hours (inc.Ferry).
Quick shower, casual clothing and a beer!I did deserve it, no doubt. We spent the evening sitting on the Castle, drinking wine in very big glasses.Very Posh!!

Day 2- Oxford

2007-09-03T14:44:00.000-07:00

We woke up around 9 am. Are we getting up?- I asked. Whatever- replied Misiek. For next 20 min we discussed if it is even worth. I got up first, turned the computer on while Misiek started to prepare breakfast. I started my day checking emails, every now and then dipping my nose in a mug of instant coffee. Not my favourite but it didn’t matter. There were few posts on UKGSER, I was delighted! Its great to know that my trip has a few observers.

We left before 11am for sightseeing. Last time we had only one evening on the way to Monte Carlo and we haven’t seen much. We walked narrow and mysterious alleys and got to Museum of Natural History. I am not a big fan of museums but I agreed. We were welcomed by the skeleton of T-Rex. It must have been a beast but those tiny arms … not easy! There was a lot of exhibits, skeletons of giraffes, elephants, dinosaurs, primates and even extinct Dodo.

Misiek wanted to buy a T-Shirt. So we went to shopping centre, where thousands of people fought for 70% discounted goods. T-Shirt “feeling lucky” with skull wasn’t bad but Misiek didn’t buy it.

WE were just leaving when I heard “ wait I’m gonna buy it” I waited for him, maybe 5 min. Walking wide corridor we passed short blond guy. “Misiek is it OK to ask famous person for a photo?” I asked . “Sure” I heard. “ So come with me” I added. I catch up with the blond “ Mr. Kovalainen, would you mind a photograph with me?” “Not at all” answered Heikki with big smile. We shake hands Misiek shoots the photo. A bit blurred but still OK. The Fin impressed me, with positive energy and optimism. Formula 1 star, winner of the Race of Champions, the same one that thrashed Michael Schumacher. I just hope he will do better. Good luck Heikki!!!

I was ready to go back. He made my day. Just one more important photo in front of the pub where J.R.R Tolkien used to spend his time, beer in Misiek’s favourite pub and than home. For a few minutes we watched a video with Niki, Misiek’s daughter. His flatmate came just when we played Sade in background, seating on the sofa with wine glasses in our hands. I don’t want to know what thought crossed her mind;)

After dinner we just had time go for one beer on the river bank, where we laughed the memories of old commodore games and at the family that could start sailing their gondola. See you in Goettingen, Doctor!

Day one Edinburgh to Oxford

2007-09-01T15:12:00.001-07:00

www.putfile.com/cyprys/

First day of the trip is behind me. Getting to Oxford took me 3 hrs more than before (7 all together). Now I will have beer with Misiek and than straight to bed. Tomorrow some sightseeing and super duper dinner.

So, everything started at 9 am when I shut the door of my home, which doorstep I won’t cross in the next 4 months. Konrad and Ania were there, Kenny, Steve, Wojtek and of course my beloved Ewelina. From home we rode to Dalkeith, where I used to work for last 1,5 years. There, I was supposed to meet few bikers. And they were there Voyager, Skynet, Stumpy, Blackal and Secret Agent Len.

After quick coffee I realised that I left my road map at home, damn it! Ken jumped on the V-Strom and went back to get it. First delay was caused by my bursting head preoccupied by travel. There was no real hurry, but I still had some 450 miles ahead of me. Shortly after 10 am eight motorcycles left MCE towards Glasgow. We spent there maybe 20 min and at last I met people I only knew by phone.
Ken R. thought that it would be great to go to Carlisle by scenic roads, which wasn’t a bad idea, views were awesome but it added to my delay. Few miles towards Edinburgh and than we took A73. Next A721 and finally A702. We stopped near the exit to M74. When I embraced Ewelina it hit me what I’m up to. Being alone for 4 maybe 4.5 months won’t be easy. When she started to cry I felt sad and realised how much it must cost her to let me do this trip. I love you Zaba.
I shook guys hands, last photos and I took off to Oxford listening to Tricky’s “ she makes me wanna die”

First traffic jam came near Preston, initially I waited 5 minutes. But seeing that I haven’t moved at all, I decided to take a hard shoulder. Congestion stretched for next 20 km!!! Next one came near Birmingham. Hard shoulder again…. And than I saw police lights…shite. “why I ride this way? How long I ride a bike? Where am I going? What driving license do I have and how do I like 4 points of my license? “ Finally after small debate and me saying mostly “I’m Sorry, I won’t do it again” they let me go without penalty. My spirit was broken and I was stuck like an arse in that traffic. 10 km took me 1hr. I got to Oxford around 9pm.
Misiek waited at the doorstep and beer in the fridge!!!

Motorbike was perfect, the only problem were panniers, like sails they caught every blow of the wind throwing me from one side of the road to the other…
After 297 miles I fuelled the bike knowing that last time engine stopped at 305.

I HAVE DONE 472 MILES.

Before Departure

2007-08-30T11:27:00.000-07:00

Hello,here I am. Just 13 hours before departure. I am nervous and a little bit scared. I have done this trip million times in my mind, trying to think of things that might go wrong. The more I think about it the more stupid I am. To be honest...I couldn't pack everything I wanted. I will have to get it on the road or try to make it with what I've got. this is supposed to be a trip of a liftime. "Do not think Marcin to much....just ride the bloody bike" - Calum Murray (saltire suzuki)

Visa

2007-08-27T10:37:00.000-07:00

I've collected another visa today. There were supposed to give me one for 4 months and for only 2 entries. They must have changed their decision or made a mistake because this one is for 6 months and multiple entries!brill!!

Pirelli - Metzeler

2007-08-27T09:56:00.000-07:00

Big Thanks for Iain Duffus from PM for 2 sets of Metzeler Tourance tyres . One set will be fitted tomo, the other will be carried on the bike.

Dual Purpose tyre developed and tuned for the big, modern street-oriented Enduro bikes

Improved carcass structures for enhanced straight line stability at high speed with smooth rolling characteristics for long distance journeys
Perfect combination of long mileage capability and great traction also on light off-road surfaces thanks to the specific compound
Great grip with light and precise handling make riding easier in all weather conditions

2007-08-27T09:42:00.000-07:00

There are just few days left! On Saturday I was at work for the last time. And you know what? I did enjoy it! that was weird.
On sunday I rode my bike to Ayr to see Johny. Johny doesn't like to sell second hand items and he decided to give me his Remus Revolution exhaust for free!I was after one for some time and even posted an Add on motoring websites asking if anyone would have it. "put some money against your charity"- will do Johny!
Funnily enough, on Saturday Peter W. came to the shop carrying a Remus Genesis exhaust in his hands whith the same Idea of donating it to me. Did not have it...now I got 2!

2007-08-27T09:39:00.000-07:00

There is a lot of money coming in!guys you are being great!we have collected over 300 Pounds so far. This is excellent!This is a fair amount of dosh and it will make those Kids very happy!!

David H.

2007-08-27T09:19:00.000-07:00

I do like David. He is very OK.One of those guys who likes to help and wants nothing in return. And damn he did!He really trust me which is nice but to be honest,I do not know why?I am just a guy from behind the parts desk and he doesn't really know me that good."because you look trustworhty"- he said. Fair enough!
He phoned me few days ago just to tell me that he has orginized some stickers for me. I was thinking about it. You know...couple of decals with my web address etc. He was one step ahead. One of his collegues delivered them to my shop the very next day. They are quite large and VERY orange. I did put them on panniers which I got also from Dave.
Thanks Pal, much appreciated!

2007-08-18T12:29:00.001-07:00

Today early morning I have decided to be late for work. It wasn’t a difficult decision as everybody knows already, the less time I have left at work the less I want to go there. Instead of riding in snail’s pace through the bypass, direction Dalkeith , together with thousands of people hurrying to their desks for 8am, I rode to Indian embassy. I was there 2 months ago only to be told that I was to early, by the lady with nice accent. As a polish citizen applying for visa in UK I don’t qualify for a visa longer than 3 months. Which would not be enough. She has promised though, that if I come back at the end of August I would exceptionally get 4 months long visa. Sufficient.

Again, the same lady in the window. Handing papers through a narrow slot wasn’t a problem. The same set of questions, the same doubts. Where to? What for? For how long? I’ve answered as precisely as possible. I even had to make a list of countries I am going to visit. At the end it was decided that I will get tourist visa for 6 months with the possibility to entry India twice. Fantastic! After I paid 40£ fee, I put on my riding jacket and rushed towards the exit. I reached my bike and what I see? Big white envelope stuck to my screen with Edinburgh Council Penalty written on it. I was away for 15 minutes. Some parking warden gave mi ticket for illegal parking. I Thought I would go crazy. No sings for zones, no indication where you are allowed to park where not. Fine of 60£ was a fuel to the fire. With steaming head in oddly today tight helmet , I arrived at work. Out of pure spite, trailing to work as a wounded dog, I have intentionally broken probably all the traffic regulations.

2007-08-15T12:47:00.001-07:00

At last. Iranian visa has arrived. After 6 weeks and few days finaly collected her from my post office.I was panicing that nowadays with all this american -iranian conflict going on, it will be very difficult or close to impossible to get one. It turned out to be just time consuming and annoying.I know that some nationalities like british and american might not get one.So many thing you have to sort out before departure which you cannot start arangeing before being absolutely sure you will get one. (CDP) This is how the procedure of getting visa looks like.
You find yourself a travel agency in Iran. It was Key2Persia in my case. You fill out an application form and scan your pass. You send them both to this agency of yours. They apply to the Ministry of Defence in Tehran in your name. After few weeks the very same Ministry contacts the Agency with a reference number.They also send a fax to the Embassy of iran in the Country of your choice.(you put it on your application) This RN is your visa. now, you fill out another application downloaded from embassy website, copy your passport, attach a pass size photograph of yourself and a postal order for proper amount (Ł54 in my case) plus self addressed envelope and post it..After 4 days your visa arrives.Unfortunatelly it is just single entry one as it is not possible for tourist to get multiple entries permit, so I will have to get another one while in Iran to be collected in Pakistan on the way back.easy, isn't it:)

2007-08-15T12:46:00.000-07:00

Just what i thought. Arek has started a money flood. We have raised 140 pounds so far. Bravo!keep them coming.

2007-08-15T12:06:00.000-07:00

hi, it is about time to start writing something about this trip.There are only 15 days left till departure from Edinburgh.
Let's start with thanking some people for help with preparations for this Journey.I wish to thank:

Ewelina, my wife, without her i would have binned this Idea a long time ago. She was supporting me all this time,giving great advices and cheering me up when I had my depressions. Ta for letting me use bigger part of our savings and for giving me 4 months off from marriage;)

Kenny Rodkiss: who pieced together a very nice and quite large first help kit (bandages, sinergies, needles,purified water,plasters, emergency blanket, rubber gloves, triangular bandage, gauze, etc.)

Paul Hayes: for a hiking rucksack and climbing rope. Paul, 1150 is way better than 1200;)

Andy Hollindale : for Cruz tools and 40 L dry bag.

Dave and Claire: for a set of nice, shiny, expedition panniers.You have saved me few quids;)

Buzz and Tasha: for indroduction to hard life of nepali Kids.For help in setting up bank accounts and all that time they have waisted answering my emails.How could I forget about big 30 Litres Adventure tank (now 310 miles range) and sump guard.

Calum Watt from Feridax: for a special deal on jacket and trousers.

Dave Byron from Putoline: for whole lot of oil, cleaning sprays, cans of WD40 etc.

Kasia P: for gigantic help with translations and preparing english version of my web. For being a good friend.

Big thanks to you all.