12.October. Degubayazit - Tabriz

I had breakfast looking at Mt Ararat, its summit was all covered in snow. Visibility was much better than yesterday. For breakfast as usually bread, jam, butter, olives (bleeee) and chai. It was just after 8am. At 8.30 I made for the petrol station to tank only 5 more liters of fuel. It should be enough to get to Maku, first village on the Iranian side where I could buy petrol card.

I arrived at the border maybe 1 hr later, I stopped once for a final photo of Mt Ararat where according to bible Noah’s Ark could be found. I also found out later on, that it takes 3 days and 600 Euros to climb to the summit. Leaving Turkey was as eventful as arriving, from one customs officer to the other. First stamp at the gate, then to the office where the guy, when we were left alone, pretended not to be able to find me in his database. I had time. Seeing that it was not leading anywhere and I didn’t give a damn he miraculously found me in his computer. Now to the Iranian side. One more gate, passport, checking stamps, if all there etc. Gate had opened and this way I was in Iran. Next, Iranian bureaucracy. First, officer took my passport and asked to follow him. “Mister Marcin”- I heard form the counter, “welcome to Iran!” No…that easy? – I thought. “ Now go there with your pass and carnet” So I went, The guy run through my papers and sent me to another one that was napping with legs high up on the table. I started with my poor Farsi. The men with moustache looked at me, then at my carnet and notes of the other guy w/o moustache. He stamped my papers 3 times , tore a page, and disappeared. Came back after 5 min- “welcome to Iran- You can go”.

All together took me 2.5 hr including Turkish side. Not to bad. Earlier I met a group of Brits and Ozis, traveling from London to Sydney by bus. They had problems with their carnet. Company that issued the papers abandoned a broken down bus somewhere in Iran last week. So now they didn’t want to let them in, The guide traveling with them who spoke Farsi Hossein (check his www.iranoverland.com ) had to use all his connections to get them in. At last they’ve made it. They had to pay 250 Euros as a guarantee that they would take care and remove the bus in case it breaks down. The guide proposed that I could join them and would squeeze me into the hotel with them as a member of the group. Great I thought! Nice company for evening, they even liked my “project”. I have never seen so many mobiles photographing my bike. I had to wait for them 2.5 hrs. We left the border together. I have to add that one of the customs officer asked for the key and had a run on my beemer and he was happy as never. We had to go 600 meters down the street to buy insurance, They paid 150Euro for the bus, I paid 46. Well, I thought. Turkey 10 now is 46. But it was for some kind of assurance “ If you kill somebody give one page from these papers and you are free” they’ve explained. Great.

When I was buying my insurance the bus left. I was supposed to meet them in Maku to buy petrol card. I found out later on that one of the organizers didn’t want to wait for me as they were already delayed. I was angry, because I did wait for them 2.5 hrs. They could have wait 54min. I got lost in Maku, I didn’t find the office. I run to far just to see disappearing bus. F***, I thought I would catch them later. I asked 2 guys on scooters where I could buy that card. They told me to follow them because they go there anyway. We arrived at the petrol station and I shook my head that I need the card first. AAA…. Said one of them. I promised to give them 5 liters of petrol (they have a limit of 3/day) to show me the way to office. He jumped on my bike and we went together. In that office I was asked to show my passport and pay 500 000 Rials. I just had enough exchanging before 50$ on the blackmarket.

The card was for 100 liters of petrol. On the station I had to pay extra 1000 rials/litre. It gives 6000 rials/litre equivqlent to 30p/litre. I refueled the bike plus 5 liters for scooter. Then all wanted photo on the bike, crap – bus was at least half hour ahead. At last I could leave and rushed to catch them, which I did 1 hr later. They stopped for lunch somewhere, guys were playing rugby, women enjoyed their time without scarfs. I stopped there I was greeted by guys I met at the border. I was still trailing the bus when it got pitch black.

Traveling by dark in Iran it’s a suicide. Concentration on the highest level. I wanted to overtake, looked into mirrors, nobody, when I turned the indicator on, I was blinded by long light from behind. Driving with lights on is a crime in Iran. So, I got to the hotel with them, but in meantime they gave up on helping me. Told me to get a room on my own, I was pissed off. Iranian guide apologised to me 1000 times for the Brits. In that hotel they wanted 35 dollars, no thanks. Somebody recommended Park Hotel, it can be found in Lonely Planet! Toilet on ski jumper position (Malysz style) shower with hot water running after10 min. Rooms clean with 3 beds. I parked beemer in hotel restaurant! All for 10$ :D Not to bad.

I was meeting some of the bus tour guys in the other hotel. We were going to eat and chat. I got there by taxi, I tried my Farsi again. Driver was so excited he gave me a free ride. There was nobody in the hotel, I found them in the Pizzeria. The brits went for pizza in Iran ?! Lucky for me they bought to many pizzas and gave me one. Then few people including me went to explore the town. We came across a beautiful mosque. Unfortunately I didn’t have any camera, but I’ll take photo today. We decided to enter. Our shoes were put in the special locker. Inside we were offered a tea. What a country….- I thought. We left wishing each other good luck .

I wandered little longer and found a nice “café”. Chai and small kebab. 30p for two teas and kebab. Goodnight.