Teheran, 45x47 km of complete madness. 12 000 000 people drowning in stink and smog. Never ending traffic noise. After 2 hrs I’ve developed a headache. Mehdi knew the place where I was collecting my money. I filled a form in 2 copies, counted money, correct. Now, I am relaxed.
BMW booklet says that the branch in Tehran also has motorcycle department. It looked like one but there was no spares, no oil. We were recommended some other place where they have never heard of Castrol GT or Putoline Formula-V either. Here is the tip – if your oil change is due in Iran, find a space to take it with you. I haven’t and now I started to worry if I will get to Nepal or not?!
Getting here from Karaj was easy. You can take a taxi or metro. Taxi is more expensive, however after calculating into western world currencies it is still cheap. Metro return ticket 5000 rials = 26p, taxi 10 000 rials. Taxi is faster and comfier, (trains are crotch-to-butt crammed), and additionally you can observe the road through front window. Here, nobody knows how to drive. Crashes are everyday thing. According to statistics, 20 000 people die here per year, which gives 55 per day, I can see how!
I do not recommend Tehran to anybody. I haven’t even really seen it. We’ve taken a city bus to the northern part of the city, to the bottom of surrounding hills. It took us 70 mins! I’ve fallen asleep at some point. And I have to add that giving up your seat to the elderly is not known in here. “Grandpa” can sit only if the younger leaves. And it was me who was urged by older guy to sit! Rear of the bus was reserved for woman. You pay when you leave not when you enter, which wouldn’t probably work in my country. When somebody gets off, runs quickly to the driver to pay him. Other countries other customs. North part is for reach people. Beautiful villas, BMWs, Mercedes S-Klasse in front. You can tell some have it better here. There are hundreds of shops and restaurants. Small cafés where you could hide with your girlfriend. Here I have seen the most of couples holding hands. Additionally small river and mountains make this place charming. Unfortunately charm was gone where we were charged 15 000 rials for tea!
Back home by taxi with 2 other strangers. I fall asleep, and woke up in Karaj. In the evening last dinner and loads of tea. I’ll be sad leaving Mehdi and Hassan. Its a pity, I don’t have more time.
In the morning I’ve noticed somebody stole my horn, the one that I’ve bought specially for Iran, Pakistan and India. I hope it won’t work for him!!!
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