24 Oct Karaj

I left Hossain’s with the smile. I stayed there to long and got lazy. The time has come to continue. 10 days have past since I came to Iran and I haven’t seen much more than rainy Astara. Well, and Tabriz, but it wasn’t anything special. I left very early. It wasn’t far to recommended by Hossain place. I had to ride towards Rasht, than to Fuman and from there only 30 km. Because it was raining all the time in Astara, I didn’t have a chance to see the Caspian Sea. 180 km to Rasht was on narrow road along seaside, going through many villages with car repair workshops. Sometimes I have a feeling that beside garages and shops with coca-cola, there is nothing else here. Considering Iranian driving style, it is not surprising, tinsmiths and car painters are everywhere.

Big blue sign informed that to Rasht Ishould go straight and to Gulam Beach turn left. Last time I heard the word “beach” was in Antalya. So I turned, 5 min later I reached huge beach stretching for miles. It was cloudy and breezy, I parked very close to the water. Fishermen were unwinding fishnets and families were picnicking on blankets.

I haven’t even got off the bike yet, when blankets emptied… Iranian question set was different form Turkish. Iranians ask ….

1. Where are you from?
2. How many cylinders in the bike?
3. Whats the capacity of the tank, how many litres?
4. Where do you work?
5. Whats your education?
6. How you’re doing?
7. What do you think about Iran and Iranians.

When they exhaust their English knowledge they start from the beginning, for fun?!. Few photos with my camera and dozens with theirs. Policeman in Paykan (Iranian made car) joined the party as well. As usually, “passport please”. They wrote down my name in some book, using car bonnet as a table.

In Fuman I got lost, nothing new. Signposts in farsi are unreadable to me. At last somebody showed me the right way. I drove until the end of the road, and reached small green valley, where surrounded by mountains small village of Masulleh, was ascending on one of the slope as vine. Roofs of lower levels served as floors of higher ones. No pavements, you walk on the roofs of your neighbours until you reach your house.

Elderly men met on the street offered me sleepover. The house was big, the room I was offered was carpeted, there was no beds. It was big enough for 10 men. I took cameras and sleeping bag with me, which was enough. I forgot to take a towel so I had to use a bed sheet instead. In the middle of the room was a gas heater. I was sweating, but apparently it was to cold for them. From the window I could admire surrounding mountains. I took my cameras and tripod and walked down the village to finally climb the hill facing my window. Mud everywhere, when I reached the place with great view on the village, I was covered with mud up to the knees. The view was amazing, village was not big. According to Surus (guy I met on the street, possibly the only one that speaks languages) 850 people live there. Most of them live from tourism, others have small family businesses, shops, bazaars, bakeries. It was after 5pm, still not dark enough for night shots. I felt it would look fabulous illuminated by street lamps, and I wasn’t wrong. Mist descending from the mountains swallowed house after house. By then, sun disappeared behind the mountains. I’m not sure I was able to capture magic of that place on photos. You have to see it. I haven’t regret any minute I’ve spent there. I came back to the bottom of the village in complete darkness. Next, dinner with Surus and a walk on the village roofs. Followed by tea in a tiny and the best café so far, with burning rubbish bins in front... Mist has completely covered whole village, couldn’t see more than 20 m ahead. Few more drags on apple tobacco shisha pipe and……

20 October, Astara, Iran

Astara, city divided by Azerbaijani-Iranian border. Therefore it wasn’t a surprise when two officers in green uniforms driving parallel to me were shouting and waving to stop. I stopped close to long drainage ditch. I wasn’t alone. For last 3 days I stayed with Hossain, Iranian guide I met on the Turkish border…… He recommended that cheap hotel in Tabriz. On Sunday morning when I was ready to leave for Tehran, phone rang in the hotel. Moosa answered, it was Hossain. He tried to contact me for 2 days. He invited me to his house for few days- to Astara on Kaspian sea. Well I thought I was not in a hurry and I was tired. What happened in Turkey and mileage in recent days aged me a bit. I needed few days of rest.

But going back to policeman…….. Motorbike this big is a rarity in Iran. Wherever I stop I attract public curiosity. One person becomes 40. Everybody take photos with their mobiles. In the country where motorcycle limit is 200cc huge bike like my is a big attraction. Gentlemen from Customs ask for my documents. My only document was polish ID. “You will come with us” I heard. F*** I thought. And I knew that I have to carry passport with me all the time. We arrived at big square with ugly dirty building in the middle. We walked between Azeri waiting for their turn, up to first floor. There we met officer, Mr Big Shot, The Kingpin. We sat down and tea has been served. Hossein was answering all questions while I tasted the tea and played with clod of sugar. After 10 min I was send home to bring my passport. Getting through the city, and then to the village and back was close to 20km. When I came back with passport, Hossein and Mr Big Shot behaved as best friends. I showed all the papers I had, we were apologised for wasted time and fuel and let free.

The only internet café was slower than first computer ever. Uploading one photo takes ages, so I’m sorry my posts will be without them. I will try to catch up in Pakistan. I couldn’t even check mail.

In the evening we decided to have a blast to the other, unknown side of the village. Deeper into mountains. When tarmac ended and road became beaten clay with rocks, I felt like in Cappadocia. Fresh air, light breeze and beautiful greenery. Twisty road….only that deadwood behind (Hossain) didn’t fit. We drove to the point where bulldozer and truck blocked the road. U turn and back to the village. I like places where you can sit with locals smoke shisha pipe. Even if you don’t know their language it seems to be so natural. Everybody communicates with everyone. This kind of place was at the end of the village, where the tarmac ends. It was enough to stop, and everyone who could see it was already there. Tea after tea, Hossein answered the same set of questions, apple taste shisha….. We spotted a party earlier on. Now, one guy told us it were women of the bride and groom families celebrating. Tomorrow is the wedding and they will be delighted if we come. Well I thought ….how many times I will have the opportunity to go to Iranian wedding? Twice! I found out later. We arrived there at 8pm. It was raining cats and dogs. The party was under tent specially built for the wedding. 2 rows of plastic garden furniture and big table for the band at the end of tent. We sat next to the wall. Food was served, chicken leg with rice and some sauce, plus small bowl with veg in vinegar. Pitchers with transparent, water like fluid arrived at the table. It supposed to look as water……but in fact it was made from young wild vines….. For one hour I was treating myself with “water”. All eyes at me, what tourist would do? It was obvious, and I was ready for that, that they would like to see the tourist dancing. For a while I observed what they do. It was enough to spread hands, stamp your feet and all will be OK. I rushed to the dancing floor (read: mud). Started dancing to the rhythm of music that hurt my ears. Some people were coming from the watching crowd and giving me money, handfuls. Applause and whistles never ending… when the song ended I took the money and gave them to music band. That’s what they do. The groom appeared with company. People were approaching them and throwing money on their heads or touching their foreheads with money before putting on the table. I liked the later option, the groom was surprised when a guy in 46 Rossi shirt presented him money. Later when we danced together he hugged and kissed me as family. I have to add here that after an hour or so food and drinks disappeared from the table. If you are hungry go home. Anyway most of the Iranians were drunk already.

Somebody came to us and said that there was another wedding tomorrow and they invite us. I went , why not. Since then I was recognised everywhere in the village. It is nice in here.

I’ve spent a lot of time chatting to Hossain. His daughter and her husband were here for few days. Hossain has his website. He is a guide in Iran, you can find him even in Lonely Planet. www.iranoverland.com . I will stay here until Monday and than to Tehran. It was raining non stop last few days, I didn’t leave the house. Only TV with 1000 channels. BBC, Polsat2 and “ the world according to Kiepski” polish sitcom. And tomorrow F1 finale in Brazil on the Romanian TV. Unfortunately all good ends quickly. My visa expires in 3 weeks. I gave myself 10-12 days more in Iran and than to Pakistan.

13 October, Tabriz. Iran

Thousands of singing throats woke me up. Today was the end of Ramadan. Holiday and new year all together, big celebration. It was after 7am. When I left the hotel I was shocked. Hundred thousands of people praying at that moment, according to statistics million people. Streets were closed, covered in rugs almost everybody had one. If not they were praying kneeing on newspapers or bags. Men separately from woman. All around people, up to the horizon. From speakers one could hear “MC” and others were repeating. At 8 all disappeared. Since I was up I decided to go sightseeing. I wanted to see that Bazaar Tasha was talking about. I found it, but it was nothing special, because of the holiday everything was closed. I exchanged 100$ with the black marketer. Next corner I met a man, and another one, we were looking for internet café, without success. From one thing to other one of them promised to sell me 20liters of fuel for 20000rials, great. When I was standing if front of shop with mobile phones, young men approached me, and spoke English. I wanted to buy a SIM card, because my phones don’t work here. He didn’t really understand what I wanted. Two other joined us. One of them offered his phone card so I could call Ewelina. Later gave me a tour of the neighborhood. Showed some ancient church (2000 years old) and café internet, I am right now writing . Next took me to the bus and gave me 2 tickets. I arrived to Agoli park. I didn’t like it to much. There , I had the best kebab so far, and the price was also “the best” 60 000!!! I paid 100 000 for hotel. I was stunned. Its almost 7 bucks! I don’t know maybe I was ripped off. The guy used abacus! 21^st century and he used abacus! I joined 2 guys at the table so maybe I’ve paid for them!!! No idea. However kebab was jaw dropping, so maybe the price was right.

When bus was approaching the stop I was still quite far. So started to run, driver honked that he is waiting. I got in and wanted to pay, he replied NO and pointed seat next to him. All others were standing and I sat next to the driver! I could see the chaos on the street as through his eyes. Scary!!! When we arrived I thanked again, again I am not paying for something, only pity those are pennies ;)

I came back to my hotel, cooked myself coffee, and came here. Unfortunately I forgot usb cable so no photos today, I will try to upload them tomorrow in Teheran. Karaj is more realistic. Buzz and Tasha have a friend there, he is supposed to show me the town. I sent him an email, if he replies would be awesome. If not I would have to do it on my own. In Teheran I need to service my bike in BMW and register in embassy. Again, another Japanese student was kidnapped….

Iran it’s a cultural mega shock. You could see woman and its allowed to hold hands on the street. However hands and face are the only things one could see. They look like Zorros, but all have modern cell phone, camera etc…

12.October. Degubayazit - Tabriz

I had breakfast looking at Mt Ararat, its summit was all covered in snow. Visibility was much better than yesterday. For breakfast as usually bread, jam, butter, olives (bleeee) and chai. It was just after 8am. At 8.30 I made for the petrol station to tank only 5 more liters of fuel. It should be enough to get to Maku, first village on the Iranian side where I could buy petrol card.

I arrived at the border maybe 1 hr later, I stopped once for a final photo of Mt Ararat where according to bible Noah’s Ark could be found. I also found out later on, that it takes 3 days and 600 Euros to climb to the summit. Leaving Turkey was as eventful as arriving, from one customs officer to the other. First stamp at the gate, then to the office where the guy, when we were left alone, pretended not to be able to find me in his database. I had time. Seeing that it was not leading anywhere and I didn’t give a damn he miraculously found me in his computer. Now to the Iranian side. One more gate, passport, checking stamps, if all there etc. Gate had opened and this way I was in Iran. Next, Iranian bureaucracy. First, officer took my passport and asked to follow him. “Mister Marcin”- I heard form the counter, “welcome to Iran!” No…that easy? – I thought. “ Now go there with your pass and carnet” So I went, The guy run through my papers and sent me to another one that was napping with legs high up on the table. I started with my poor Farsi. The men with moustache looked at me, then at my carnet and notes of the other guy w/o moustache. He stamped my papers 3 times , tore a page, and disappeared. Came back after 5 min- “welcome to Iran- You can go”.

All together took me 2.5 hr including Turkish side. Not to bad. Earlier I met a group of Brits and Ozis, traveling from London to Sydney by bus. They had problems with their carnet. Company that issued the papers abandoned a broken down bus somewhere in Iran last week. So now they didn’t want to let them in, The guide traveling with them who spoke Farsi Hossein (check his www.iranoverland.com ) had to use all his connections to get them in. At last they’ve made it. They had to pay 250 Euros as a guarantee that they would take care and remove the bus in case it breaks down. The guide proposed that I could join them and would squeeze me into the hotel with them as a member of the group. Great I thought! Nice company for evening, they even liked my “project”. I have never seen so many mobiles photographing my bike. I had to wait for them 2.5 hrs. We left the border together. I have to add that one of the customs officer asked for the key and had a run on my beemer and he was happy as never. We had to go 600 meters down the street to buy insurance, They paid 150Euro for the bus, I paid 46. Well, I thought. Turkey 10 now is 46. But it was for some kind of assurance “ If you kill somebody give one page from these papers and you are free” they’ve explained. Great.

When I was buying my insurance the bus left. I was supposed to meet them in Maku to buy petrol card. I found out later on that one of the organizers didn’t want to wait for me as they were already delayed. I was angry, because I did wait for them 2.5 hrs. They could have wait 54min. I got lost in Maku, I didn’t find the office. I run to far just to see disappearing bus. F***, I thought I would catch them later. I asked 2 guys on scooters where I could buy that card. They told me to follow them because they go there anyway. We arrived at the petrol station and I shook my head that I need the card first. AAA…. Said one of them. I promised to give them 5 liters of petrol (they have a limit of 3/day) to show me the way to office. He jumped on my bike and we went together. In that office I was asked to show my passport and pay 500 000 Rials. I just had enough exchanging before 50$ on the blackmarket.

The card was for 100 liters of petrol. On the station I had to pay extra 1000 rials/litre. It gives 6000 rials/litre equivqlent to 30p/litre. I refueled the bike plus 5 liters for scooter. Then all wanted photo on the bike, crap – bus was at least half hour ahead. At last I could leave and rushed to catch them, which I did 1 hr later. They stopped for lunch somewhere, guys were playing rugby, women enjoyed their time without scarfs. I stopped there I was greeted by guys I met at the border. I was still trailing the bus when it got pitch black.

Traveling by dark in Iran it’s a suicide. Concentration on the highest level. I wanted to overtake, looked into mirrors, nobody, when I turned the indicator on, I was blinded by long light from behind. Driving with lights on is a crime in Iran. So, I got to the hotel with them, but in meantime they gave up on helping me. Told me to get a room on my own, I was pissed off. Iranian guide apologised to me 1000 times for the Brits. In that hotel they wanted 35 dollars, no thanks. Somebody recommended Park Hotel, it can be found in Lonely Planet! Toilet on ski jumper position (Malysz style) shower with hot water running after10 min. Rooms clean with 3 beds. I parked beemer in hotel restaurant! All for 10$ :D Not to bad.

I was meeting some of the bus tour guys in the other hotel. We were going to eat and chat. I got there by taxi, I tried my Farsi again. Driver was so excited he gave me a free ride. There was nobody in the hotel, I found them in the Pizzeria. The brits went for pizza in Iran ?! Lucky for me they bought to many pizzas and gave me one. Then few people including me went to explore the town. We came across a beautiful mosque. Unfortunately I didn’t have any camera, but I’ll take photo today. We decided to enter. Our shoes were put in the special locker. Inside we were offered a tea. What a country….- I thought. We left wishing each other good luck .

I wandered little longer and found a nice “café”. Chai and small kebab. 30p for two teas and kebab. Goodnight.

11 October .Degubayazit

Few photos first, more to follow.........

10 October. Erzorum

I didn’t want to stay there for a night. I wanted to get to the border quickly and across to Iran. Simon told me a lot about Iran. That it’s cheap, people are great and it is really awesome.

In Erzincan I got a full tank and went to the shop adjacent to the station. Inside only woman giggling, smiling at me, I don’t know why.

Maybe, because I was unshaven? Or so dirty?… I purchased 3 packs of cookies, jumped on the bike and took off.

I passed by a part of the city with many car repair workshops, every city has one. When spotted a shop I entered it in hope to buy stickers I was looking for since I came to Turkey. I found them! I was so exited I bought two. The guy also removed some of the asphalt stuck to my bike, I forgot to mention that on the way to Erzincan I had to ride 5km on the road where just asphalt was poured and covered with gravel. The bike was grimy with pitch.

I took off again, road as a road with quite decent views. In Erzorum at the junction I saw a guy that could hardly wait for green light. I started a fraction faster, he caught me and overtook just to brake rapidly and turn right. I didn’t brake in time and crashed into his back. I tried to turn to avoid him so I didn’t hit with my front wheel only with crashbars and the tank. I could hold on to the bike, when stopped, got off the bike and threw my gloves.

I started to yell at the guy who did the same. I was jumping as a rabbit on the road to explain and show him that he is an idiot. I didn’t know what to do. To call police or not. More and more people were coming. Now-I thought- if police comes I’m in trouble. 100 men saw it was my fault. I got out a duct tape from paniers and started to fix the damage. After few minutes I got on the bike and drove off. The guy just waved with his hands. 20 km later I stopped to calm down and drink some water. The engine didn’t want to start again. I started to panic. Few texts to Zaba, she made a couple of phone calls to get help. To Steve in BMW Dalkeith, to Steve and Dave-datatool guy in Saltire. They said it could be few things. Alarm was going off on his own, I couldn’t hear the pomp, maybe fuel pressure? I lifted the tank, and spilled petrol all over me.

A guy speeded by on the GSX-R, I could hear Yoshi from far. I didn’t know if he saw me waving. Hi did. Came back shortly. Murad, he is an optician. Owns a shop with glasses and many other things. I gestured what was wrong. He grabbed his phone and started to call. I could hear TAMAM TAMAM all the time. In the meantime I checked all the fuses as guys recommended, under the tank was the alarm fuse- burnt! Bingo. Murad jumped on the bike and after 20 min came back with fuses. After next 30min fuel tank was back on the bike, ignition ON and the engine started to talk to me again. Awsome! So I decided to stay in Erzorum.

Murad said that the bike goes to his garage and I go to hotel. Garage turned out to be his shop with glasses and hotel…. Well.. hotel. I didn’t want to pay for a hotel more than 25lir. And I didn’t. Later on I found out that he paid the extra 10. At 8pm we met in his shop, more people started to come. Murad sent somebody to bring me food. Fresh tea was on my table all the time. Later came Ahmed. He jumped on my bike and rode away, and we after him by car. I don’t understand Turkish and could only recognize TAMAM TAMAM. We arrived at the workshop and they already worked on my bike. Fender already fixed, more guys came and cleaned the bent, when started to pat and straighten it petrol begun to leak. They quickly drained the tank or I should say Mahamad did (he looks like young John Torturro). Mahamad sucked the fuel through a pipe as professional. The hole was cleaned and a screw with special glue was put into it, “We will see tomorrow“ they said. In the meantime other guys fixed indicator from Honda J , it worked! Today morning everything proved to work fine. No leak, glue became hard as metal. Now only to carwash. I didn’t pay for anything! Repair, mechanics, spraying the tank, wash, dinner or today’s breakfast – not a penny. I felt very happy today. When I was saying goodbye I cried. I was overwhelmed. I said , if it wasn’t for them my trip could have end up there. I think that was the best thanks for them. Even now I shed a tear. I am so grateful for their selfless and candid help.

So I got to Degubayazit. Tomorrow Iran! There, probably the real thing will begin…

9 October. Goreme-Rafahiye

I left Goreme with heartache. That place was unbelievable. If only Zaba was there with me. A magical location.

I rushed in the morning to get as far as possible. Towards Erzurum. I knew I wouldn’t get there but I had to try. Erzincan was more realistic. I could have spent the night there and next day get to Degubayazit. I stopped for a coffee few times and once for lunch. And of course I paid too much again, or at least I thought so.

I don’t know why it took me so long, but even Erzincan started to look beyond my reach. Just before place the name I don’t remember any more, I was stopped by a military police. Passport this….passport that…. They hold me there for 20 min. It was getting dark. Next to the petrol station was a hotel. A guy with wide smile said 40 lir. I replied with even wider one “no thanks” and left. I spotted nice clearing and got there through some mud. I set my campsite just next to the stream. In meantime I started a bonfire. Somebody had seen it and started to shout form the street. I quickly extinguished it, but nobody came. I don’t know what he wanted. Maybe thought that something is on fire and wanted to know if it is under control. I was quite scared that somebody would come and threw me out. The night was quiet and peaceful though. But it was the coldest night from all. I slept in motorcycle gear in 2 sleeping bags and my teeth were clanking.

I got up at 6am and before 7 was on my way. 20 min later I got to in Erzincan. Now the target was Degubayazit but I didn’t get there.

8 October. Göreme

Yesterday I saw off Chris and 2 Israelis from the hotel to the bus station. Chris is an American, she travels around Europe for 4 months. And she has “only” 7 left! Today she is flying to Egypt, then to Kenya – climbing Kilimanjaro. After that Zanzibar, Zimbabwe, RSA. And after that to India where she should be in January. Chris was a great companion during our stay there. On Saturday we jumped on the bike and went to small place Derinkuyu. There is an underground city people were hiding during enemy attacks. In that 8-storey place were the mosque, school, kitchen, rooms. It was interesting but not entirely satisfying. 8 –storey sounds like 2hrs of exploring but we finished after 30min.

Next we went to see Ihlara Valley. A mini Great Canyon. Wonderfull place to rest, stroll, hike or even camp. Only the fact that they charged us 5 lirs to enter national park. Clouds started to crawl. Already on the way to Ilhara showered a bit. So we decided to go back. Sun was hiding behind dense clouds and it became quite chilly.

In the late evening bonfire and chatting until 4 am. We have started new tradition in the hotel. Bonfires take place in front of my tent which I like. I am a kind of an outlaw. All others stay in the rooms, only me in the tent. Guy with cojones! Its freaking cold during night, even two sleeping bags are not enough.

It started feel empty in the hotel. Nathan from Canada left, Chris left, Yair from Israel is also going home. One couple still here, Canadian of Dutch origin and Turk she met in the bus, and he came with her to Goreme. Something like a holiday fling, I would say. Yesterday we had dinner together. Vulcan prepared salad and grilled sausages, yummy.

Today I’ve spent my time in different way. Biking in the valleys, a bit of offroading. There were times it was difficult, squeezing between rocks, sometimes scratching the sandstone with my crashbars. Two times I almost fell, and once when I stopped for “Cannon moment” BMW decided to fell down. This time it was easier to put in on the wheels. And I am still furious that the camera on my helmet doesn’t work and I don’t know how to solve that problem.

Tomorrow packing and further travel towards Iran. I just got email from Simon, he is there now. Petrol costs 6000 rials which is apparently very cheap. You only need to estimate how much you will need and buy a petrol card on the border. 100 liters cost 40 EUR, it won’t be as cheap as some people told they had. One day I had to count if I have enough dollars.

5-7. October. Göreme.

Few pics first.
Na razıe kılka fotek.

4 October. Antalya- Konya

That was a day! I started before 9am. I had more than 500km to Goreme in Cappadocia. I didn’t get there that day. I traveled through the most beautiful mountains I have seen so far in Turkey. Twisty and fast. Trees on one side abyss on the other. After few hours my stomach demanded food. I stopped in some village where I smelled fried meat. I was ripped off first time since coming to this country. I paid twice as much as I would in the center of Istanbul! But I didn’t want to argue. And after an hour of kind service and nice chat , I didn’t see it coming. I left leaving big cloud of dust.... F*** this. This is Turkey great kindness of some people mixed with greed of others.

I passed Konya around 5pm. To Goreme I had 200km more. Mountains finished and planes started.

It started with sand storm. I couldn’t see for 50 meters. The wind became stronger and stronger, after few minutes it turned into the worst wind and rain I had ever traveled in. Two times I have almost ended up under the truck, and they didn’t care...

I’m not going any further I thought. Setting a camping in this conditions was impossible. Gas station. From one gesture to the other, they told me to wait in the restaurant. I got chi and around 7pm together with 17 Turks I had Ramadan dinner for ½ price what I paid those buggers in mountains. And of course police came, asked standard set of questions, then photo. Exchange of emails, addresses, and again I was called CRAZY.

I set my tent on the concrete floor. That was the coldest night so far. Early morning at 6am I said good bye to the guard. I received traditional Turkish farewell, touching with both sides of the forehead. At 11.30 I arrived to Goreme. And there shock....

3 October. Antalya

I slept very long. The city is not particularly interesting. If not for the mountains on one side and see on the other I wouldn’t even stop here.

Ordinary sea resort, where every second building is a hotel or pension. I’ve spent some time lazing on the beach, writing diary and sipping bear. I have to add that beer was not that cheap, but I couldn’t deny myself small tasting of national brew. It was called Efes.

Early afternoon was approaching. Guy at the reception gave me a map with all tourists attractions around. Not far (90 km) from Antalya there is a small place Olimpos. Where narrow path leads to the place where according to mythology Bellerofon on back of winged Pegasus defeated Chimera. I got to the place with flat rock, ascending steeply up, with many holes blazing fire. Everywhere stunk gas. I was face to face with mythology.


At the bottom there are still Byzantine ruins. And during those time this site was popular. I came back to the hotel after dark. Last km I did on the fumes of petrol. Petrol, unfortunately is the biggest expense in Turkey. 1 liter was more than one pound.

2 October. Simlav-Antalya

We woke up at 9 am. And because we had eaten at 2 am there was no need to stand up at 4 am to eat some meat as they sometimes do. My farewell was almost with honors, like for a family member.

Last photo in front of the factory. 548km of tough journey before me, in the heat and not very promising roads to Antalya. There I wanted to stop for a rest. Sights were beautiful, and once again I swear that camera didn’t work.

Because I started 20 minutes after woke up, I arrived to Antalya quite early. Maybe at 5pm. First problem was camping, wild not possible, it’s a big city after all. I didn’t want do it outside of the city, because I wanted to do sightseeing and couldn’t leave all the equipment alone. Hotel was the only possibility. At this time of the year hotels are empty so I could bargain a good price for a room, 4^th floor hotel Koblenz. The owner, elder guy, that worked 22 years in Koblenz selling Kebabs and etc. Now

came back and built 8-storey hotel at the beach with 40 rooms.

Standing with the bike close to the beach I heard sirens

and saw 4 policemen on 2 BMWs F650GS. They shouted something and waved their hands. As it appeared they only wanted to talk about the bike. How great it looks! how far I ride ! And that I have to be very brave!

In the evening short sightseeing and beer on the beach

1 October. Simlav

I left before 10 am to Istanbul harbour that was maybe 10 min from the Sinbad motel. I bought ferry ticket to Yalova. For 30 lir it was even worth, this way I avoided traffic travelling around. On the ferry I met Mustafa who lives in Bursa. He was a good company, even bought me a tea, but didn’t drink himself, you know its Ramadan. From Yalova to Antalya, app 700km. Not possible on those roads. I knew I would have to stop somewhere for the night. Sights were superb and it looked that I would finally camp….Self brewed tea, and instant Chinese soup , that I bought in Rabka….

On the suburbs of Bursa I came across BMW salon. I stopped there, anyway I needed a rest. Guys in suits welcomed me as real traveller. Standard set of questions. Photos.

They told me that there is a nice lake not far where I could camp. Great, they had a rideout there 2 weeks ago with clients. They showed me maps and how to get there. But I’ve never got there. I got to Simlav. I stopped there at petrol station, the best place to find information. Motorbike again became the centre of interest and everybody wanted to help. I asked about the lake. They said there is no. I told them with hand language that I’m tired and want to kip, the best on the campsite. One said I could camp at the station. OK, we looked , there was not enough space. On the grassland behind there are apparently some snakes… Other one said to follow him. His name was Mustafa, exactly second guy I met and the same name. On the other side of the street was a building. Quite big and shabby. In front the grass was just cut. “here” said Mustafa. Great. “but diner first” he added. He’s invited me inside, inside was a sunflower oil factory. Everywhere sacks with sunflower seed, tins with oil and big oil containers. Noise of the machines , smell of sunflower seeds created the mood. We ate, had some chai and then tey took me to Turkish baths. When I started to unpack my tent, Mustafa stopped me and said that I would sleep in his house, next nice surprise.

At 2 am there was a supper , because they are not aloud to eat meat after that. Than bed, I slept like a log. In the morning they bid me farewell and I rode away to Antalya. I got there at 5pm.

29-30 September. Istanbul

Journey from Sozopol took me little more than 7hrs. Didn’t seem far, but still… Roads from Sozopol to Turkish border were dreadful as under construction. Hole on the hole. On the border-first contact with bureaucracy. One widow to get visa, the other to get stamp next to visa. Third to insure motorbike for a month.. Later again to the same one for more stamps. I don’t know how long it takes if its crowded. It took me about 40 min. I was almost leaving when 2 officers stopped me. One spoke English the other one didn’t talk. I was asked to the booth by the “mute” one. He looked at my papers and said 10 Euro! “I am not going to pay” I replied and that I already paid for everything. I went out to ask the other one for what I suppose to pay? “Everything OK. now” I heard behind. Interesting isn’t it? Now its only 250 km to Istanbul. It took me some time. In the first town – I don’t remember the name- I stopped to withdraw some Turkish cash, I looked at the post with the clock and thermometer.......

Now motorway and Istanbul. First 80 km were OK., empty, almost to traffic. But later it started to get dense. Traffic changed into soup of cars, only three lanes but 5 cars. Incoming cars just joined without stopping, even looking. Short beep on the horn and I should know. Complete chaos but it seemed to work. Overtaking on the right left, and middle. Cement-mixers in the middle driving 100 kmh, big trucks half a meter from you!!! Dreadful . I paid the toll – 4.5 lir and so I was in Istanbul.

The vastness of the city hit me when I stopped on some bridge to have a look and ask a policeman where to go. Michal gave mi

address to a hotel which I obsessively tried to find. I knew it would take time to locate it. Heat was killing me. Water was running out. Motorbike oil started to boil, I was stuck in the traffic every 200 meters. Everybody honked , exhaust fumes from old buses stunk. I sweat like hell. I strayed for2.5 hrs before I found the hotel, and it was an ordeal. They didn’t have any more beds on the roof and only one available room. It was a little expensive, but what the hell… I’ve spent one day and two nights in Istanbul. First night I went out to see what’s illuminated, and there was a lot! I got to the big square just next to Sultanahmet. Thousands of people, thousands! Eating, chatting, buying enjoying themselves. Carousels, electric cars big festival. I sat a while on the bench, grabbed a doner to eat, wandered around and went to sleep. Tomorrow F1 GP on Fuji. The city is massive, unofficially lives here more than 20 millions people plus tourists. Lots of Poles Russians and Chinese. I even found Russian quarter, I’ll write about the city some other time.

26th September, Obzor. Bulgaria.

I like Bulgaria, very much. Few km south of Romanian border and imidately everything looks different. Less dogd, more hills and forests. People somehow different. First nice surprise form elderly woman. I felt I need some fruit, so I stopped in the middle of the village, the name I can’t pronounce. She had a small stall with melons and watermelons there. I remember the price was 0.40 /kg. The one I chose was 3 kg. “ give me one stupinka and we are good” she said. “it’s not enough” I replied with hand language. “that’s fine, and take this small melon as well” And so, with 5kg of fruit in quantity of 2 I continued to Varna. The city turned out to be bigger than I thought. Huge harbor, even park in the city was full of ships, between which mothers with kids were having a walk. I have to add that all mums and other women are really beautiful. J I wanted to stay there for a night, but all that traffic and noise put me off. I found a small town called Obzor on the map. It was a right choice. It was lovely there. One feels as on the French Riviera, or Greece on the Adriatic. Everything surprises. People are cheerful, it is colorful, sea is wonderful and only 150 meters from my room, which decent price I haggled over .

In the towns you could buy anything and “original” . Dolce&Gabana, Levi’s, Ferrari F1 team, Renault F1, Ray Ban, Tissot or Rolex. Haven on earth. And you could stuff yourself with “original” gyros Bulgarian way. Fried meat with onion and extras wrapped in omelette , and beer for 2 Zloty and the beach , can you match that?

26th September Constanta

Yesterdays evening, was what I was waiting for. Fantastic warm evening, light breeze. Myself , full moon and empty beach. Rest of the Vincia in the bottle. Water boiling on the stove, for my soup. All alone with nature. What else do I need? More days like this where all the misery of life or pursuit of happiness has no meaning. In the evening I’ve finished the bottle with Traian Deceban. In appreciation he gave me picture of the Virgin Mary, guarding travellers. I don’t believe in it but it’s the gesture that matters to me. And photo.